Car Buying, Driving, Etc

Buying a Car: Do Your Research - Know the Product

2008-11-07T08:50:00.000-08:00

A new car is second only to a home as the most expensive purchase many consumers make. The average price for a car in America is approximately $24,500. That’s why it is so important to know how to make a smart deal.

Think about what car model or options you want and how much you are willing to spend. Shop around! You’ll be less likely to feel pressured into making a hasty or expensive decision that you might later regret. Can you afford it? Just as a home can be foreclosed on for default, a car can be repossessed if the payments are not made according to the terms of the contract.

Consider the following suggestions:

Do Your Research - Know the Product

Plan to negotiate on the price. Compare models and prices in ads and on-line car buying services.
New or used?
Check articles from Consumer’s Report to find out what cars are lemons.

Factors to Consider

What is the value of the car you want to buy?
Will the car have a good resale value?
Consider ordering your new car if you don’t see what you want on the dealer’s lot.

The Dollar Factor & Terms to Know

The invoice price is the manufactures initial charge to the dealer. This is usually higher than the dealers final cost because dealers receive rebates, allowances, discounts and incentive awards.
The base cost is the cost of the car without options, but includes standard equipment and factory warranty.
The monroney sticker price (MSRP) shows the base price, the manufacturer’s installed options with the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, the manufacturer’s transportation charge and the mileage.

The dealer sticker price is the MSRP plus the suggested retail price of dealer installed options.

You must also determine how much you can afford to spend. Your payment should not exceed 20% of your net income.

The Purchase & Financing

If you decide to finance your car, be aware that the financing obtained by the dealer may not always be the best you can get. Contact lenders directly and compare financing offers.
The purchase involves four separate transaction: Negotiating the cost, the cost of financing, your trade-in (a sale not part of the purchase), and the cost of insurance.
You control the sale: never allow a sales person to establish financing based on what you can afford to pay a month; negotiate based on the APR.
Several factors influence the APR – credit history, current finance rates, competition, and market conditions.
To qualify for special rates you may need to put down a larger down payment.
Before you sign the contract consider the terms of the financing and evaluate whether it’s affordable. READ the contract! I cannot emphasis this enough!

Insurance

Liability is required by law; it covers damage to the other person’s vehicle from an accident.
Collision and comprehension, covers your car – the lender requires this protection as long as you are paying for your car.

The Law & You

Financing Pending: after 3 working days the deal is dead if financing you agreed to is not approved.
The 3 Day Cooling Off Rule does not apply to auto sales. The deal is sealed when you sign.

What You Should Know About a Co-Signer

A co-signer assumes equal responsibility for the contract, and the account history will be reflected on the co-signers credit report. Use caution if asked to co-sign for someone even a family member! Many co-signers are stuck paying for the car, so be sure you can afford to do so before agreeing to co-sign on someone’s vehicle.

Vehicle Repossession

In the same way a mortgage lender can foreclose on a home if the payment is in default, so can an auto lender take (repossess) the vehicle. The lender holds important rights over the vehicle until you make the very last payment on your loan obligation.

In many states, your creditor has legal authority to seize your car as soon as you default on your loan. Because state laws differ, read your contract to find out what constitutes a default. In some states, failure to make one payment or meet your other contractual responsibilities are considered defaults. If you make any changes with your lender it’s best to get it in writing.
Once your car has been repossessed, your creditor may decide to keep the car as compensation for your debt. Or sell it at public auction. In most cases you may be entitled to buy back the vehicle by paying the full amount you owe plus expenses connected with the repossession, such as storage. If the car is sold for less than the loan amount you will be responsible for paying the deficiency amount. Depending on your state’s law and other factors, if you are sued for a deficiency judgment, you should be notified of the date of the court hearing. This may be your only opportunity to present any legal defense. An attorney will be able to tell you if you have
any grounds to contest the deficiency judgment. Buying a car doesn’t have to be a hassle. Just remember to plan your purchase! Calculate the cost, the options, and don’t forget insurance! The choices are yours!

How to Buy a Used Car

2008-01-30T10:55:00.001-08:00

It's sad but true. Today, the average new car will cost you more than $20,000. But the minute you drive that car off the dealer's lot, depreciation kicks in and your new car becomes a used car, suffering a substantial loss in value (sometimes as much as one-third of its original price in the first year alone).

But you (and your wallet) don't have to get caught in this catch-22. Smart car shoppers know they can save a bundle by buying a used car instead, and there has never been a better time than now.

Today's vehicles are generally more reliable than their predecessors. They last longer and require fewer repairs. That means that you can buy a used car--even one with significant mileage--and still expect years of reliable service.

The current popularity of leasing has also been a boon to used-car buyers. Since most leases run only 2 to 3 years, there is a steady stream of high quality, well-maintained, low-mileage vehicles entering the used-car market.

Of course, getting a good deal on a good used car does require some work. So sit back, buckle up, and let us show you how to find a second-hand cream puff (and how to avoid the lemons).

Determine What You Can Afford

Smart shopping begins long before you take a test drive. Start by setting a budget that you can live with. Few of us can afford to pay cash for a new car, but--depending on the car and your savings account--you may be able to buy a used car outright and avoid finance charges. Whatever the case, figure out exactly what you can afford based on your monthly income and expenses. Remember to factor in registration and license-plate fees, sales tax, and insurance.

Determine the Kind of Car You Need

Next, narrow your choices by determining the type and size of vehicle that best suits your lifestyle. Balance your needs, wants, and wishes. If you currently own a car, how well does its cargo and passenger space meet your needs? Do you haul groceries, people, pooches, or lumber? Is a sedan adequate, or do you really need a minivan, station wagon, sport-utility vehicle, or maybe even a pick-up? Any family or career changes on the horizon?

What about engine size? Does your current car have sufficient power, or do you want more acceleration and/or towing power? What kind of driving do you do--stop-and-go in the city, cruising on the highway, or four-wheeling off the beaten path?

How about weather conditions? Are you frequently facing snow-covered or icy roads? (If so, you'll want to avoid rear-wheel drive. Fortunately, most cars today are front-wheel drive, but four-wheel or all-wheel drive may be even better for your specific needs.)

What about options? These days, you have a lot to choose from: power windows, power door locks, anti-lock brakes, air bags, CD players, air conditioning, sunroofs, etc. Which options do you want or need, and which can you live without? (Remember, more options means more things that can break.)

And finally, how long do you think you will keep the vehicle? (The longer you intend to own the vehicle, the lower mileage it should have when you purchase it.)

Choose a Car

Once you've determined your budget and needs, it's time to identify specific cars that fit the bill. Consumer Reports Buying Guide and the annual auto edition of Consumer Reports (the magazine) recommend specific makes and models and advise against others based on their "frequency-of-repair" ratings. The Kiplinger Report annual automotive issue is another good source of information.

You'll also want to determine a fair price for the vehicle(s) you're considering. Check out the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) appraisal guides for current retail values, or visit their website at www.nadaguides.com, which offers free pricing information. Other good sources include Kelly's Blue Book retail reports (www.kbb.com) and Edmunds Used Car Prices & Ratings (www.edmunds.com).

You should also check the classified section of your local newspaper for the vehicle's local market value. In some cases, it will vary considerably from the guides' values. (Most newspapers have websites where you can search classified ads for specific makes and models.)

In general, the older the car, the lower the price. In other words, a 1996 Honda Accord will have a lower retail value than a 1997 Honda Accord in similar condition. If you identify a car that you like but it's too expensive, keep checking older models of the same make until you arrive at a year that fits your budget. If the model year that you can afford is too old for your taste, you'll likely need to consider a different make or model.

And remember, insurance rates vary based on make, model, and year. Once you've identified a car you want, get an insurance quote to make sure the premiums are still within your budget.

Where to Buy Used Cars

Okay. You've identified a few cars that fit both your budget and your needs. Now it's time to go shopping. Basically, you can buy used cars from three types of sellers: new car dealerships, independent used car lots, or private individuals.

1. New car dealerships are your best bet if you want peace of mind and don't mind paying for it. New car dealerships that sell used vehicles often charge the highest prices, but they're more likely to offer a warranty and to stand behind the vehicle they're selling. Many dealerships offer "certified" used cars--vehicles that are inspected by the dealership's mechanics and repaired according to the manufacturer's standards before they are offered for sale. In many cases, these vehicles come with factory warranties. You'll pay a premium for a dealer-certified used car, but you may save a bundle in repair bills down the road. Be sure to carefully examine the warranty, though. In some cases, there are limitations or fees attached to transferring the warranty from one owner to another. Also, dealer-certified used cars tend to be late models (often former leases). If you're in the market for an older model, you may be out of luck.

2. Independent used car dealers may or may not offer warranties, and unlike new-car dealerships, they usually lack repair facilities. Newer to the scene are used-car superstores with huge inventories and often no-haggle pricing.

3. Private individuals usually offer the best deals on used cars because they aren't constrained by a profit margin, but if you buy from an individual, you're really on your own. Unless you have a written contract indicating otherwise, the sale is likely to be "as-is." On the plus side, you'll meet the car's owner face-to-face and get a sense of how well they've maintained the car, why they're selling it, etc.

If you plan on buying from an individual, be sure to first familiarize yourself with all the paperwork requirements of a private sale, namely the title transfer. Some states require that the seller's signature and mileage verification on the title be notarized. Call your local department of motor vehicles for the specifics. And be prepared to pay for the car with cash, a bank check, or a cashier's check. Individual sellers are reluctant to accept personal checks.

Evaluating the Car

Regardless of where you buy, always ask to see the maintenance and repair records for the vehicle you're considering. The value of a vehicle is not just in its make, model, and year, but in how well it's been maintained. Even the best cars aren't likely to hold up in the long run if the previous owner hasn't had regular oil changes and maintenance.

Ask the seller about the car's maintenance history, previous owners, and whether the car has ever been involved in a wreck. A conscientious individual seller will have a stack of receipts to document the car's maintenance history. Don't expect as much from a dealer. Also, check to see if the original owner's manual is still in the glove box. Drivers who take care of their cars keep the owner's manual.

You should also take the car for at least a 20-minute road test. Drive in as many different conditions as possible: on the highway, in town, up and down hills. If the vehicle has air conditioning, be sure to turn it on (it causes the engine to run 20% hotter and harder). Find a safe area to test the brakes with sudden stops.

If the seller refuses to allow a road test, don't buy the car--it's a simple as that. (Keep in mind that a dealer may ask to make a photocopy of your driver's license, and an individual seller may ask to come along for the ride. These are both reasonable requests on the seller's part.)

After the road test, if you're still interested in the car, you should arrange to have it inspected by a professional mechanic. Regardless of who you're dealing with, NEVER buy a vehicle--no matter how much you like it, no matter how good a deal it appears to be--until you've had it inspected.

Ideally, you should line up a mechanic even before you begin shopping for a car. A complete mechanical inspection will cost you around $50 (roughly one hour's labor charge). This is a small investment compared to the price of a car. (Hint: if the mechanic finds minor problems, but you still want to buy the car, you can use the mechanic's findings as leverage to negotiate a lower selling price.) Always get a written inspection with estimates for any necessary repair work.

Be sure to tell the technician about any problems you've discovered during your discussions with the seller or during your test drive. In addition to the mechanical inspection, the technician should also try to determine if the vehicle has been involved in an accident. (Telltale signs include irregularities in the sheet metal or paint job, and signs of paint in places where it shouldn't be--on chrome, lights, wires, under doors, in wheel wells, etc.) The technician should also be able to identify rust damage, which may be hidden by quick-fix bodywork that will begin to deteriorate shortly after your money leaves your wallet. (If the vehicle is dirty, have it washed before it's inspected so that body damage will be more easily identified.)

For additional peace of mind, you may also consider running a "lemon check" on the car. (Smart sellers--especially dealerships--will provide you with a lemon check on the spot.) Using a car's VIN number, companies such as CarFax (http://www.carfax.com/) will check government records and generate a report on the car's history. Such reports can reveal problems such as odometer rollbacks and prior salvage titles (indicating that the car has been in a major accident). The reports also determine if the title is "clear" (i.e. that there are no outstanding liens against the vehicle).

When shopping for a used vehicle, remember: the key is preparation. The more homework you do, the less likely you are to wind up buying someone else's problem, and the more likely you are to find a second-hand gem with lots of useful life left--at a price you can afford.

How to Negotiate a Fair Personal Injury Settlement

2008-01-30T10:35:00.000-08:00

(Note: This is the second in a 2-part series on how to negotiate with insurance companies following an auto accident. To learn about property-damage claims, see How to Negotiate a Fair Settlement when Your Car Has Been Totaled.)

Maybe you’re familiar with personal-injury settlements. Maybe one time you barely tapped another driver’s bumper and he got out of the car clutching his neck, moaning in histrionic agony. Maybe a few months later you saw him driving around in a new convertible with a fistful of dollars, thrashing his head to the beat of his Alpine CD player...

Neck and back injuries are funny things. Often, they don’t show up on scans and X-rays. That’s why people are able to fake such injuries and "work" claims, accumulating unnecessary medical bills in order to get bigger settlements.

Not only are such people crooks, but they drive up the cost of insurance premiums for everybody else, and they make it harder for people with real injuries to get fair settlements. Understandably, insurance companies are often skeptical of personal-injury claims. That’s why it’s important to understand how the claims process works before you find yourself banged up in a wreck.

The Circling Vultures

If you’re ever involved in an auto accident that wasn’t your fault, get ready: you’re about to become a very popular person. Rather than actually chasing ambulances, chiropractors and personal-injury lawyers stake out police-records departments looking for no-fault accident victims such as yourself. Shortly after your accident report is issued, the doctors and lawyers will likely begin sending you letters soliciting your business.

Of course, whether you should hire one of these lawyers or visit one of these doctors depends on the specifics of your accident and your injuries. Before you make any moves, consider the following.

How a Claim Works

An insurance claim for an auto accident will result in a property-damage settlement and--if injuries are involved--a personal-injury settlement. These two kinds of settlements are calculated separately. (This article deals only with personal-injury settlements.)

If you’re injured in an auto accident, a smart insurance company will try to get to you fast, before the lawyers and chiropractors do. Often, an adjuster will visit you within 48 hours of the accident and offer you a check on the spot.

This may seem like good, quick customer service, but don’t be fooled--it’s a cost-saving strategy for the insurance company. Often, injuries from car wrecks (particularly neck and back injuries) don’t manifest themselves immediately, and often they require long-term treatment. By moving in quickly, the insurance adjuster seeks to minimize his company’s liability for such hidden injuries. Once you accept the check, you have "settled" the claim and the insurance company is off the hook; you are no longer entitled to additional money.

The adjuster may offer a settlement that includes a schedule of payments for any subsequent treatment you require over the next six months. That’s good, but what if you end up needing treatment for more than 6 months? And what if the cost of the treatment exceeds the settlement? Unless you want to end up paying huge medical bills, don’t accept the check, tempting as it may be.

Take Your Time

The first rule for settling a personal-injury claim is to take your time. Unlike a property-damage claim, which you should settle as soon as possible, a personal-injury claim shouldn’t be settled until you’ve seen a doctor and fully understand the extent of your injuries. Even if you’ve gone to the doctor and you check out okay, it’s a good idea to wait at least two weeks before settling with the insurance company.

Document Your Injuries

The second rule for settling personal-injury claims is to document your injuries. Without proof that you’ve been injured, the insurance company isn’t going to give you a dime.

Injury documentation starts at the scene of the accident. When the police arrive, they will ask if you want them to call paramedics. The answer to this question is YES. After an accident, you are full of adrenaline and incapable of assessing your physical condition. You know from looking at your car that there’s a good chance you’re hurt, even if you don’t feel too bad at that moment.

If the paramedics offer to take you to the emergency room for a more thorough examination, the answer again is YES. In fact, you should request it. Don’t take a chance with your health.

You should also document any visits to your personal physician and any time you miss from work.

How the Settlement Is Calculated

Unlike property-damage claims (where adjusters rely on comparables and NADA figures to establish the value of your wrecked car), there is no set formula for calculating personal-injury claims. In general, personal-injury settlements tend to be higher than property-damage settlements, and the adjuster usually has more leeway, dollar-wise, in negotiating the settlement.

You can expect the settlement to cover: 1) your medical bills (including prescriptions); 2) lost wages (missed time for doctor’s appointments, recuperation, etc.); and 3) an additional sum to compensate you for your pain and inconvenience (this is where the adjuster’s leeway comes in).

Lawyers & Chiropractors

Chiropractors like no-fault accident victims because they know an insurance company will cover the bills. And insurance cheaters like chiropractors because multiple visits to the doctor help jack up the pain-and-suffering component of their settlement.

However, if your back isn’t really hurt, don’t be tempted to rack up bills with the chiropractor. Insurance fraud is a crime, and if you get caught, you may jeopardize whatever legitimate claim you have to a settlement.

Lawyers like no-fault accident victims for similar reasons, and since the lawyer’s payment is based on the amount of your settlement, he may encourage you to "work the claim" by taking sick days and making repeat visits to the doctor. Obviously, this is sleazy, and whatever settlement you get, the lawyer will take a big chunk.

For these reasons, you should think twice before calling a personal-injury lawyer. However, if you’ve tried negotiating with the insurance company and they’re giving you the short end of the stick, an attorney may end up being your best course of action, particularly if large sums are involved.

Tips for Negotiating with Adjusters

If the adjuster says, "We won’t pay for your lost work time; you’re already getting paid by your employer," tell him that doesn’t matter; you’re still losing a benefit, and you’re therefore entitled to compensation for lost wages from the insurance company.
Veteran adjusters are good at spotting crooked claimants seeking to rip off the insurance company. As a person with a legitimate injury, you want the adjuster to know you’re an honest Jane seeking nothing more than a fair shake. A good adjuster will recognize that you’ve saved him money by not hiring a lawyer and not accumulating excessive medical bills. For this reason, he can afford to be a little more generous in settling your claim--and you can afford to insist on a satisfactory sum.

(For more tips on negotiating with adjusters, see How to Negotiate a Fair Settlement when Your Car Has Been Totaled .)

Glossary

Comparables - Cars for sale which are used to help establish the value of your wrecked car by means of comparison.

Insurance adjuster - Insurance company employee who negotiates and settles claims (i.e. the person who writes you the check).

Property-damage settlement - The money an insurance company pays to repair or replace your car, plus additional costs such as a rental car.

Personal-injury settlement - The money an insurance company pays to compensate you for injuries sustained in an accident, including medical bills, lost wages, etc.

Settlement - Sum of money paid to you by the insurance company, usually in the form of a check. Your acceptance of this check constitutes the "settling" of the claim and releases the insurance company from further liability.

Car Care Basics for Women

2008-01-30T10:14:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Care Care Basics - your 101 class on caring for your car. Here you can read all about how a car works, including brief overviews of the engine and major systems, maintenance tips, and information on how to handle emergencies and get back on the road.

I. Knowledge is Power: Understanding How Your Car Works

How Your Engine Functions, in a Nutshell

Cars are powered by internal combustion engines. That is, engines rely on combustion (fire) internally (inside). The fire inside the engine ignites very carefully controlled explosions that take place inside the engine thousands of times per minute. Those explosions--in which chemical power (some fuel, namely gasoline) is transformed into mechanical power (wheels going around and around)--are what make cars go.

That's really the long and short of it. Gasoline is mixed with air and with a tiny spark (ah, the spark plug!) to create ignition (the fire) and the explosion. The force of the explosion "pushes" an object (a piston), just like the force of an explosion sends fireworks cascading into the night sky. The difference here is that the piston remains in a controlled setting and its power and energy are harnessed. Inside the engine, the piston pushes another object (the connecting rod) which is connected to the crankshaft. Because of their shapes and the way they are joined, the up-and-down motion of the piston causes the crankshaft to turn around and around. As a result, the wheels turn and your car is propelled forward (unless, of course, you happen to be in reverse).

Just as you function (or don't, as the case may be) depending on the effectiveness and efficiency of your body systems -- circulatory, respiratory, nervous, etc.--your car depends on a number of systems to control the power being generated in the engine.

The Basic Engine Systems

The Fuel System

Gasoline is likely the liquid you are most familiar with when it comes to your car, but it's only one of the essential liquids your car needs to make it go — and keep going. Gasoline allows the engine to ignite and create explosions. Without gasoline, your car would be little more than a piece of furniture on wheels.

Oddly enough, gasoline is a very difficult liquid to ignite. Gas vapors though, light up quickly and dangerously. So, in order for gasoline to work as a fuel, it has to be transformed into a vapor, which means it must be mixed with a lot of air in just the right proportions.

The fuel system stores gasoline in a big tank (the gas tank). A fuel pump draws the gasoline up from the tank, through the fuel line, and into either the carburetor or fuel-injection system. (Older cars have carburetors; newer cars have fuel-injections systems.) Here the gasoline is mixed with air and vaporized. Finally, this vapor is then sent to the engine's cylinders (where the explosions take place, and the pistons go up and down…).

The Ignition System

For combustion to occur, you need three ingredients: a combustible material, air, and a spark. Once the gasoline vapor is in the cylinder, two of the puzzle pieces are in place. Now an electric spark must be delivered at exactly the right moment.

Your battery and alternator provide this electricity, sending it through the system to a distributor cap (in older cars)--which, you guessed it--distributes the electrical charge to the spark plugs (ta-da!) which shoot a small spark and ignite the vapor, creating the explosion that makes everything happen. (Newer cars rely on a computerized method of delivering the electric charge. Different style. Same result.)

Each cylinder has one spark plug, so a six-cylinder engine has six spark plugs and a four-cylinder engine has four. Engines are categorized by the number and configuration of these cylinders. A V-8, for example, has 8 cylinders (four on each side of the engine, angled to form a V). Similarly, an inline-6 has six cylinders, only they're all lined up in a row.

The more cylinders in your engine, the more power. Of course, there's a trade-off: more power also means you're using more gas and making more pollution.

As you can imagine, with all these explosions going on, those cylinders and the engine can get pretty heated up. Which brings us to the next vital system...

The Cooling System

When you get all steamed up, there are basically two things that can help you cool down: liquid (taking a cold bath, drinking a tall glass of iced tea) or air (loitering in front of a fan, sticking your head in the icebox, etc.). Same deal with your car.

In a water-cooled engine (which actually uses a mixture of water and other coolant chemicals), the coolant draws the heat from the cylinders. That is, the cylinder heat warms the coolant fluid which is then pumped away from the cylinders to the radiator, where it is cooled by a fan and then re-circulated.

An air-cooled system accomplishes the same task, but it does so by transferring the cylinder's heat to circulating air rather than to a liquid coolant.

The Lubrication System

The principle of friction is the same in all contexts: two objects rubbing together create heat… and wear. Your car has a bazillion moving parts that are constantly in contact with other moving parts. The lubrication system is the means by which this heat and wear are minimized, thus extending the life of your car.

The Exhaust System

Just as a giant bean burrito can produce a prodigious amount of gas in your stomach, your car's engine produces gases (not gasoline) that must be released. That's where the exhaust system comes in. The engine forces the gases through a manifold, which then sends the exhaust through pipes out into the air. The muffler reduces the amount of noise produced during this process; the emission control system reduces the extent to which these gases foul the environment.

The Transmission System

Your car's transmission takes the engine's power and transfers it through a series of gears to the drive shaft, or drive axle. When the drive shaft turns, it turns the wheels' axles and-- viola! --your car is set in motion.

A car's transmission operates on the same principle as that 10-speed Schwinn you used to ride to the pool on summer afternoons before you grew up and had to get a job. By using different gear ratios, the transmission adjusts for the most efficient transfer of your engine's power, depending upon your driving speed. (Unlike the Schwinn, though, you don't have to worry about your towel getting caught in the chain.)

There are two types of transmissions — automatic and manual. An automatic transmission automatically (clever, huh?) changes the gears and gear ratios, allowing your car to accelerate while you fiddle with your lipstick or your coffee or your cassettes. A manual transmission requires a little more work from you. The driver must press down on the clutch, disengaging the transmission so that a different gear can be manually entered with the stick shift as you accelerate.

The Electrical System

The electrical system in your car is actually two systems piggy-backed on top of one another. The basic electric system consists of a battery and a starter. When you turn your key in the ignition, you close a circuit (just like you do when you turn on a light switch). An electrical current travels from your car's battery to your car's starter, an electrical motor that triggers a series of actions, which result in the crankshaft turning and sending the pistons up and down. The spark plugs fire. The engine starts and the rest is history.

Once the engine has started, the battery and starter give way to the second part of the electrical system. The charging system takes advantage of the engine's power to recharge the battery and to provide the power necessary for all those things that you like about your car in addition to rolling forward — playing the radio, turning on the lights, cranking the air conditioner, etc.

The Steering and Suspension System

Imagine driving your sexy little convertible (or your rusty Chevy pickup) along a gorgeous mountain road. Feel the breeze in your hair, the tingling rush of air on your face. Don't you just love zipping around those hairpin turns? Now imagine that your car has no steering mechanism. Not as much fun, right? The steering system starts with the steering wheel, which is attached to front wheels (unless you have one of those all-wheel steering cars, which you probably don't). Thanks to ingenious ball-joint connections --which allow connected straight shafts to do something other than push or pull)--your turning the steering wheel results in the front wheels turning left or right.

Your kidneys owe special thanks to the suspension system, which is made up of various types of shock absorbers. As their name implies, they absorb most of the shock from bumps and holes in the road. Without the suspension system, you'd probably have a jarring headache every time you went for a drive, and you'd probably never make it those last 30 miles to the rest area.

The Brake System

You know what the brakes do. The question is, how does that little pedal manage to bring a very heavy object traveling at high speed to a full stop in such a short amount of time?

The answer is, fluids. Whenever fluids perform a mechanical function, we say it is a hydraulic system (that is, a system that uses fluids). When you press down on the brake pedal, small pistons in the master cylinder force brake fluid out into a series of small tubes called the brake line. This fluid exerts a pressure in the brakes (drum brakes or disc brakes) which then use friction to bring the rotation of the wheels to a halt. Simple.

Though you'd never know it while sitting in the air-conditioned comfort of your car, this friction makes your brake rotors get red hot every time you come to a stop from even a moderate speed. That's why it's a good idea to avoid slamming on your brakes unnecessarily. Most rotor damage occurs in wet conditions: you hit the brakes, they get red hot, and then water splashes onto them, causing them to warp.

The Five Fluids That Keep Your Car Running

Think of the lotions and liquids that you lavish on yourself to make your life bearable and beautiful, from wine to water, skin softener to lipstick, bath oil to perfume. Granted, some of these potions are superfluous--treats we give ourselves--but others are absolutely vital to our comfort and well being.

Your car is like you in this respect. The leather softener and Rain-X are swell extras, but there are five fluids (in addition to gasoline) that your car can't live without.

Oil

Oil is the lubricant that keeps your engine happy and moist (okay, moist isn't the right word for a cast-iron engine, but you know what we mean). Oil keeps your engine's moving parts friction-free. Checking and changing your engine oil is probably the single most important thing you can do for your car. (See "Checking the Oil Level" below for step-by-step instructions on what to do.)

Radiator Coolant

If you've already read "The Cooling System" above, then you know how important it is to keep your car's engine cool while all of those explosions are taking place in the cylinders. Radiator coolant is more than just water. It's water mixed with a chemical additive, either alcohol or glucose (but not glucose you'd want to eat). The additive raises the fluid's boiling point and lowers its freezing point, which is very important. As you undoubtedly recall from your fifth-grade science class, water boils at 232 degrees and freezes at 32 degrees. Well, your engine gets a lot hotter than 232 degrees when it's running, and it gets a lot colder than 32 degrees when it's sitting out on the street during the winter. Thanks to the magic of radiator coolant, your car's cooling system is able to keep your engine well within its comfort zone.

Transmission Fluid

If you've ever seen the terrifying assortment of gears inside a car's transmission, then you can imagine how much friction and wear is created there. Transmission fluid lubricates the constant changing and meshing of gears, allowing your car to ride smoothly whether you're driving uphill, downhill, or stop-and-go in the city.

Brake Fluid

Remember that your brakes work hydraulically. If that master cylinder isn't pumping out the brake fluid, your brakes won't work — and you won't stop.

Power Steering Fluid

Ever notice how even the biggest cars and SUVs can be maneuvered by the tiniest drivers? Once upon a time, steering a car or a truck was like riding roughshod over a team of wild horses. Now, thanks to the physics of hydraulics, any of us can steer a truck without breaking a nail. But to do so, power steering fluid must be present. Otherwise, making a simple turn would require a long history of afternoons in the gym.

II. Maintenance 101 (or How to Show Your Car that You Love It)

Your car may not be the primary relationship in your life, but like any other relationship, it demands time, effort, and attention. Sometimes you can be a little neglectful and still get away with it. But if you let your attention lapse for too long, you are liable to find yourself on the shoulder of a deserted highway some rainy night, wondering why your cell phone won't work. (Okay, that's a little melodramatic. Sorry. The point is, don't neglect your car and it won't leave you high and dry when you need it most.)

The Owner's Manual

The starting point in taking care of your car is your owner's manual. You remember your owner's manual, don't you? It's that book that you have never, ever even opened. The one in the plastic sleeve. That's right. In your glove box. The one that's always getting in the way.

As it turns out, you ignore your owner's manual at your peril. The manual contains a wealth of information about your car that will make your driving experience much more pleasant. In addition to vital information like how to set the buttons on your radio or how to adjust your clock and dashboard lights, your owner's manual can help you with Troubleshooting Hints — useful tips for anticipating and solving problems.

These hints can also save you a lot of time and embarrassment. Have you ever endured the disdainful smirk of a tow-truck operator when your car wouldn't start, only to learn that you had left the car in gear when you parked it the night before? Simply putting the car in either "Park" or "Neutral" would have allowed you to start the car, save the service fee, and avoid meeting the tow-truck guy.

In addition to the Troubleshooting Hints, your owner's manual contains another very important section — the Maintenance Schedule. Here, the maker of your car details exactly what maintenance tasks should be performed on your car and how often they should be done. Like pap smears, breast self-exams, and weekends at the spa, regular maintenance for your car is vital for its happiness and well being.

The Weekly Check-Up

Weekly maintenance of your car needn't take more than a few minutes. It's a small investment for such a substantial return. Basically, the weekly check-up involves checking the five basic fluids, the air in your tires, and your windshield-wiper fluid. (The windshield-wiper fluid is decidedly a Lesser Fluid--your car won't die without it. But do you really want to risk having bug guts obstructing your field of vision?)

If you've never checked your fluids, don't worry. We'll take you through it step-by-step (though you may want to have your owner's manual handy to help you locate the proper dipsticks).

Before you dive under the hood, though, you might want to start with trip to your local auto-parts store. Purchase a tire gauge and the following fluids so you'll be ready when you need them: oil, coolant, windshield-wiper fluid, power-steering fluid, brake fluid, and transmission fluid (if you have an automatic transmission). Check your trusty owner's manual for the specific types of fluid required by your car. It's also a good idea to buy some basic tools if you don't already have them. (For example, you'll need a flat-head screwdriver when you check your brake fluid.) And treat yourself to a $2 plastic funnel--it will make the whole experience easier and less messy.

Allow twenty or thirty minutes for your first weekly check-up. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to finish in ten minutes or so.

Checking the Oil Level

First of all, you'll need an old rag or two. Time to retire that T-shirt you wore at summer camp ten years ago. Also, as you check the fluids, be careful that the rag doesn't leave lint deposits on the dipsticks.

1. Make sure your car is parked on level ground with the engine off, gearshift in "park," and the parking brake applied.

2. Raise the hood. It's a good idea to do this when the engine is cool (for your general comfort, and to reduce the risk of burns.) If you must do your weekly maintenance after a day of driving, try waiting an hour or two for the engine to cool down. When you open the hood, make sure it locks safely in the open position, or that you prop it open with the bar located under the hood. (See your owner's manual for details on which hood apparatus is found on your car.)

3. Now locate the dipstick. You'll be able to recognize it because it is a thin rod with a curved handle sticking up on either side of the engine.

4. Carefully remove the dipstick and wipe it completely clean of oil.

5. Return the dipstick to the round metal sleeve you just pulled it out of. (Don't feel bad if this proves difficult--many a seasoned mechanic finds himself or herself unable to guide the rod into the sheath without using two hands.) Push down gently on the rod to be sure it is fully inserted.

6. Remove the dipstick again and inspect the thatched section at the flattened end of the rod. You should be able to see an amber-colored fluid on the end of the dipstick. That's oil. (If the color is reddish-brown, put the dipstick back. You've got the transmission fluid dipstick.) You will see the word FULL at the upper end of the flattened section and the word ADD near the bottom.

7. If the fluid comes up above the ADD line, your engine has enough oil in it. If the fluid is at or below the ADD mark, you will have to add up to a quart of oil to your engine.

8. To add oil, find the oil cap, which located on the top of your engine. On most newer cars, the word OIL will appear right on the cap. Remove the cap and position one of your trusty rags to catch any drips. (If you really want to be tidy, break out that plastic funnel.) Now all you have to do is pour the oil into the engine. However, it should be the same kind and grade of oil that you've already got in there. (If you don't know what kind of oil is in your car, check the paperwork from your most recent oil change, or check the little reminder sticker that the oil-change shop left on your windshield.)

9. Wait a little while for the oil to settle and then go back to step 4. Follow the steps until you have the perfect amount of oil in your car. Warning: Even if your car tends to leak oil, never over-compensate by filling the oil past the FULL line. Too much oil in the engine can create too much pressure, which can cause expensive damage.

Checking the Coolant Level

When it comes to checking the radiator level (where the coolant is located) you absolutely must make sure your car is cool. If you don't, you stand a very real chance of being scalded by spewing hot liquid. Not only is this messy, it is really, really dangerous.

The radiator is almost always located at the very front of the engine. Most newer cars also have an overflow tank attached to the radiator. The side of the overflow tank should be marked MIN (for minimum) and MAX (for maximum). If the fluid level is between these two lines, your job is done. If it is below the MIN line, follow these steps:

1. Slowly and carefully turn the radiator cap counterclockwise. Stop after about a quarter turn. This will allow any built-up pressure to be released. Count to three. Unscrew the cap the rest of the way.

2. Look inside. If the coolant is below the neck of the opening, add a mixture of coolant and water (_ water, _ coolant).

3. Open the cap to the coolant overflow tank and add coolant until the fluid level is somewhere between the MAX and the MIN lines.

4. Tighten the caps and wipe away any excess coolant that may have dripped onto the engine.

Checking the Windshield Washer Fluid

1. Find the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. It's usually a clear or white plastic jug that holds a pint to a quart of colored liquid (usually bluish).

2. Visually check the fluid level and, if there's room, top it off with windshield wiper fluid, which you can purchase at any auto-parts store and most gas stations. Don't simply use water. It can freeze up in the winter, and it doesn't do nearly so good a job as wiper fluid.

(Hint: when you fill the windshield wiper jug, put a little fluid on a rag or paper towel and wipe the blades themselves. They'll function better and last longer.)

Checking the Power Steering Fluid

Now you're getting the hang of this, right? Basically, you're just locating various reservoirs and checking fluid levels. Simple. The hardest part is finding the right reservoir. Once you've done that, you're home free.

Power steering fluid is located in a reservoir attached to the power steering pump. On most cars, the pump is powered by a fan belt located toward the front of the engine, so look there first. The reservoir sits atop the pump like a sentry on a stool. The cap usually has a dipstick attached on the underside.

Like all of the fluids we've discussed, and like the air in your tires, power steering fluid expands when it's hot. Some power-steering-fluid dipsticks have lines indicating FULL HOT and FULL COLD. This allows you to check the fluid accurately regardless of engine temperature. However, if your car doesn't make this provision, it is best to check the level when the car is cold.

If you find that you are low on power steering fluid, check your owner's manual for the proper replacement fluid. Go buy some and top off the reservoir, but once again, be careful not to overfill. Just bring the fluid level up to the FULL mark.

(Although you should check this fluid weekly, it shouldn't need to be topped off more than every couple of months. If you have to add fluid more often than that, you probably have a leak somewhere in the system.)

Checking the Brake Fluid

The master brake cylinder is usually located toward the back of the engine on the driver's side. On most cars, it is an oblong metal reservoir, usually clipped into place with a metal clip. (Some cars have plastic master cylinders that look like dual reservoirs with two lids.)

1. Clean off the top of the master cylinder before you open it. The last thing you want is dirt and grime mucking up your brake lines. You will need a flat-head screwdriver to pry away the metal clip so you can open the lid.

2. Visually check the fluid level.

3. If needed, add the correct amount of brake fluid. Again, your owner's manual will tell you exactly which DOT (Department of Transportation) grade of brake fluid to use.

Checking the Automatic Transmission Fluid

Unlike the other fluids, transmission fluid should be checked while it is warm. For this reason, you have to follow a slightly different routine. (Note: Checking manual transmission fluid is a lot more complicated and requires getting your car up on a hoist. If you drive a car with manual transmission, it's best to have a mechanic check the fluid.)

To check the automatic transmission fluid, find the dipstick handle toward the back of the engine. It may look similar to the oil dipstick so, if you've found the oil dipstick, the transmission fluid dipstick is the other one. Got it?

1. Put your car in either "neutral" or "park." Apply the parking brake (even if you don't usually use it.) Start the engine.

When the engine is warm (after a couple of minutes), pull out the dipstick.
Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth.
Put the dipstick back in. Hold it there a second. Pull it back out.
Check the level.
If the fluid does not reach the FULL line:

Lay the dipstick on the clean rag and get a funnel that fits into the dipstick opening. Slowly pour in the appropriate transmission fluid (which is specified in your owner's manual.)
Re-check the fluid level.
One final check of your transmission fluid is the famous "touch test." Transmission fluid should be very smooth and clean, pinkish in color but nearly transparent. Touch the fluid on the dipstick. Does it feel gritty? Does it smell burnt or have a burnt color? If so, you should have a mechanic drain and replace the fluid.

Often, the symptoms that indicate serious transmission trouble are the very same symptoms of low transmission fluid. So check your fluid before some wise guy tries to sell you a new--and pricey--transmission.

Checking the Tire Pressure

Congratulations! You're finished under the hood. Take a deep breath. Use a rag to gently lift the hood in order to release the lock or to free the rod, and then close the hood until it latches securely.

Now it's time to check your tires. To do this, you will need a tire gauge (an inexpensive investment you already made during your trip to the auto-parts store).

Begin by visually inspecting your tires for cracks, signs of uneven wear, and embedded foreign objects. Now, go from tire to tire and follow these steps:

1. Unscrew the little black cap covering the air nipple. (If there is no little black cap, buy one. They keep small amounts of air from seeping out of your tire). Press the gauge tightly against the air nipple. Depending on what kind of gauge you own, a plastic rod will pop up or a dial will register the amount of pounds per square inch (PSI). The recommended PSI will be printed on the side of the tire.

2. If your tire is properly inflated, close the cap and move on.

3. If the tire needs air, drive to your local gas station. Most will have a free air hose (though some places may charge $25). And try to choose a nearby station, because if you drive more than five miles or so, your tires will get hot and you'll be unable to get an accurate pressure reading.

Apply the air hose to the tire nipple, allowing it to pump air into the tire. Check the pressure again. If you've added too much air, depress the pin inside the nipple to release some of the pressure.

4. Follow this procedure for all of your tires, including the spare (which may be hidden beneath a panel in your trunk). Remember, a flat spare is a worthless spare.

Quarterly (3,000 mile) Check-Ups

Quarterly check-ups are a bit more involved than weekly check-ups. After every 3 months or 3,000 miles, you should:

Change the oil and oil filter.
Check the battery and charging system.
Visually examine hoses and belts.
Change your windshield wiper blades.

There are some people who contend that changing your oil every 3,000 miles is unnecessary. They say you can wait and do it every 5,000 or 6,000 miles. These are the same people who're always amazed to hear you talk about getting 100,000 miles or more from your car. "Really? Our car just flat-out died at 75,000!" Yup.

Oil is the lifeblood of your car. Keep it clean and your car will love you. Let it get thick and goopy and you're stealing years from the life of your car. You decide how often to change your oil. But don't say we didn't warn you.

Changing the Oil and Oil Filter

Take your car to a mechanic, and an oil change will run you anywhere from $15 to $30. You can do the job yourself for a fraction of the cost, and it's a relatively simple procedure. Even if you eventually decide it's not worth the trouble to do it yourself, it's a good experience to have under your belt.

So, time for another trip to the auto-supply store! You're going to need a handful of tools to change your oil and oil filter:

Several quarts of motor oil and an oil filter. Be sure to get these items before you drain the old oil from your car, or you'll be very sad. Check your owner's manual to determine the quantity of oil and the recommended type of oil filter.
An oil-filter wrench. It ‘s true that some oil filters can be hand tightened and hand loosened, but it's still a good idea to have a wrench in case things get a bit too snug. Besides, it will keep you from getting your knuckles scraped.
An adjustable wrench. This tool will allow you to unscrew the oil plug so the old oil can drain out of the engine.
A bucket or tray to catch the oil. Make sure it's big enough to hold all of the oil, or you'll have a horrible mess on your hands. You can buy an oil tray at the store.
A funnel, which will allow you to easily and neatly pour oil into the engine. No muss. No fuss.
More rags. Oil is slimy, dirty stuff. You'll want to be able to wipe your hands off and wipe excess oil from the engine. (If you spill oil on the engine, it won't cause any damage, but it will produce a burning smell when the engine is hot.)
A work light. You know, those cute little lights that have a hook at the top and a bulb in a metal cage. These lights are handy when you're underneath the car.
An old towel to lie on while you're under the car.

Now follow these step-by-step instructions:

1. Start your car and let the engine run for two minutes. This will soften and thin out the gunky old oil so that it flows smoothly from your car. (Don't let the engine run too long, though. The last thing you want to do is work on a hot engine, or have hot oil drip onto you!)

2. Position your old towel under the front end of the car, then crawl under with your work light. You should see what looks like a small, metal tub upside down against the bottom of your engine. This is the oil pan. At the bottom of the oil pan, there will be a large nut or plug. This is your oil drain plug. Touch it. If it's hot to the touch, you've allowed the engine to run too long. Let it cool off a bit more.

3. Slide the bucket or tray under the car so that it is directly beneath the drain plug.

4. Using the adjustable wrench, loosen the plug until it is almost ready to come out. (You'll know it's just about ready when oil starts seeping out the sides.) Now, using a dirty towel or rag, finish loosening the plug and remove it. Pull your hand away quickly so the dirty oil doesn't start flowing down your arm.

5. Come out from under the car and unscrew the cap from the oil filler hole at the top of the engine. (This is the same cap where you add oil during your weekly check-ups. See "Checking the Oil Level" for more details.) Removing the cap will allow the oil to drain more quickly from the bottom of the engine. (It's the same principle that's at work when you put two holes in the top of a Hi-C can instead of just one.)

6. Unscrew the oil filter. It looks like a can attached to the side of your engine, and it's usually white or orange, depending on the brand. The filter is probably still filled with oil, so handle it carefully.

7. Empty the oil from the filter into the bucket or tub under the car. When you've poured out all of the oil, wrap the old filter in newspaper and put it in a plastic bag. It should go to the recycling place where you will take your old oil (usually a nearby service station).

8. Open a new bottle or can of oil. Put a little of the fresh oil onto your fingertip and lubricate the gasket (the rubber ring) around the new oil filter. Now screw the new filter into place. Don't over-tighten! If you're concerned that you can't tighten it enough by hand, use the oil-filter wrench, but only go about a quarter turn after it feels snug.

9. Time to go back under the car. How's everything look under there? The old oil should have finished draining by now. Use your rag to wipe the drain hole and then replace the oil drain plug. Use your adjustable wrench to tighten it. A little more than just snug, but again, not too tight.

10. Once the new filter is installed and you've replaced the drain plug, it's safe to pour the new oil into the engine. Use the funnel, even if you have a steady hand. Trust me. Pour in all but about one quart of the recommended amount of new oil. Then close the cap and run the engine for about a minute. While the engine is running, look for leaks under the car and around the filter.

11. Turn off the engine and wait five minutes or so for the oil to settle. Check the level with the dipstick (see, "Checking the Oil Level"). Add the remaining oil if you need it. If not, remove the bucket or tub from under the car. Drive around the block. Re-check the oil level. Now transfer the old oil into a portable container and deliver it, along with the oil filter, to a service station that accepts oil for recycling. (Keep in mind that motor oil is carcinogenic; you don't want it sitting around the house. And keep it away from your pets and relatives.)

Semi-annual (6-Month) Check-ups

Just because something needs to be checked only twice a year is no reason to neglect it. Mark the date on your calendar. Treat it like a semi-anniversary with your car.

Every six months, you should:

Rotate your tires. You'll want a mechanic to handle this. Your car will need to be up on a lift, and throwing around tires, well, it's just plain exhausting!
Adjust the brakes. Ditto the mechanic on this.
Change the air filter. This a job you can handle yourself, so next time the oil-change guy tries to sell you an air filter, Just Say No.

Replacing the Air Filter

As you may recall, in order to produce the explosions that power your car, the engine must mix air with gasoline. The air filter cleans this air as it is sucked into your car, ensuring that your engine isn't mixing lint and dust and insects with the gasoline.

Check your owner's manual to determine the location and type of air filter used by your car. Most air filters occupy a housing secured by wing nuts and/or clips. Think of it as an airtight sandwich, with the air filter snuggled securely between the upper and lower pieces of the housing. Some air filters are shaped like a giant doughnut. Others are shaped more like a brick. Whatever the shape, the process for replacing the filter is pretty much the same.

1. Turn off your engine.

2. Locate the air-filter housing and unclip the clips and remove the wing nut(s).

3. Lift off the top of the housing.

4. Remove the old air filter by simply lifting it up.

5. Wipe excess dirt from the inside of the metal housing.

6. Put in the new filter.

7. Tighten the wing nut(s) and re-clip the clips.

Annual Check-ups

Ah, another important anniversary for you and your car! Each year, you should have a mechanic:

Adjust ignition timing.
Replace drive belts.
Lubricate your car's chassis.

(If you're ready to tackle any of these jobs yourself, you shouldn't just be reading this website, you should be writing for us.)

III. Emergencies

Despite your best efforts, despite regular maintenance and tender loving care, you and your car are destined to experience some trying moments. Usually, they come at the worst possible time — when you're racing to meet a friend's plane; when you're on your way to an extremely important business meeting; when it's snowing; when you're wearing white.

Emergencies are, by definition, situations that force us to do things we might not otherwise feel prepared to do. The trick, then, is to be prepared, thus turning emergencies into mere annoyances.

You Locked Your Keys in Your Car

Okay, okay. We know newer cars have that little buzzer that goes off when you leave your key in the ignition. And some really thoughtful cars have a device that won't let you lock the doors if the car is shut off and the key is still in the ignition. But what if you don't have a car like this, or what if you left the key ON THE SEAT?

There once was a time when a bent coat hanger could save you from being locked out of your car, but thanks to internal locks, combination locks, and alarm systems, those days are over.

News flash! Right now, today, we beseech you to take your car key to the hardware store and have a copy made. Take that second key and stuff it into one of those deep pockets or crevices in your wallet. Then forget about it . . .

. . . Until you find yourself locked out, at which point you can bat away the cruel hand of fate. But if you didn't get that key copied, you're going to have to call a locksmith, and it's going to be a big waste of time and money. Or you could call the police, who are sometimes kind enough to jimmy open a door. Either way, it's plain embarrassing.

You Have a Flat Tire

Oh, the sinking feeling. Oh, the horror of coming out to your car and realizing that it isn't sitting quite level. Worse, the terror of a blowout while you're zooming along the highway.

But for you, prepared HerAuto motorist, there is a silver lining to the gray cloud of flat-tiredom--you can pat yourself on the back for keeping your spare tire properly inflated during your weekly check-ups. (If your spare is flat, please see "Checking Tire Pressure'.)

Assuming your spare is in good shape, you've got two options:

1. Call a tow truck (or call your auto club and have them send a tow).

2. Change the tire yourself. (This becomes a much more appealing option when the tow company tells you they won't be able to help you for 3 or 4 hours.)

If you've never changed a tire before, don't sweat it (emotionally and psychologically, that is), it's not that hard. But be prepared to sweat a little (physically), and be prepared to get grimy.

In addition to the tire-changing tools that should be located with your spare, you'll probably want to keep an old pair of gloves and maybe even an old apron or towel in your trunk. There's no way around it — changing a tire is dirty work.

1. Make sure your car is on a level, stable surface. A muddy or hilly roadside is not the place to change a tire.

2. Make sure your car isn't going anywhere! Put your car in "park" and apply the emergency brake. Stick a rock or big piece of wood behind one of the non-flat tires. If you are on a roadside, put your flashers on! Make yourself visible to oncoming traffic.

3. Open your trunk and take out the spare tire along with the jack and the lug wrench. The lug wrench will help you pry off the hubcap, and it will also function as the lever for the jack. Your owner's manual includes details specific to the type of jack in your car.

4. While the flat tire is still flat on the ground, pry off the hubcap (the fancy Frisbee-like thing on your wheel). Under the hubcap, you'll see the lug nuts that hold the tire to the wheel. Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts by turning them counter-clockwise. This might take some elbow grease. Lug nuts are supposed to be good and tight. You might have to step on the lug wrench to help loosen the nuts.

5. With the lug nuts loosened, jack the car high enough to allow you to take the flat off and put the spare on. (Check owner's manual to find out exactly where to place the jack for the safest and most effective lifting of the car.) You will be amazed at how easy it is for you to lift a whole car with the jack. Enjoy the feeling of strength and power. It's one of the few upsides of changing a tire. BE CAREFUL! Don't get under the car while you are jacking it up. Imagine what would happen if the jack collapsed and your car fell down.

6. Once your car is up in the air, remove the loosened lug nuts. Place them on the hubcap so they don't wander off. Now slide the tire gently away from the car. Place the flat tire on its side under the edge of the car between the jack and the wheel well, making sure there is plenty of room to put on the spare. The flat will help further stabilize the car.

7. Mount the spare. Fasten the lug nuts on the bolts and tighten them by hand, going from one to the other in a "star" pattern (rather than just proceeding clockwise around the wheel). As you do this, gently press the wheel flat, making sure it's firmly in place. Do not tighten the nuts with the lug wrench yet--a car on a jack is too unsteady for that.

8. Lower the car using the jack. Now finish securing the lug nuts with the lug wrench, using your body weight to get them good and tight.

9. Don't forget to remove the blocks from your tires. Now you'll want to drive to a service station and get the flat tire fixed as soon as you can. After all, if the fates are frowning on you, you could end up with another flat — with a flat tire in your trunk!

Jump-Starting Your Car

Okay, you KNOW your car isn't going to start if you're in a horror movie and Jason or Michael or Freddie is coming your way with a meat hook. But chances are, there will also be other less expected times when your car won't start, and depending on your schedule that day, you may still feel like you're in a horror movie.

Start by checking the troubleshooting tips in your owner's manual. Once you've ruled out the usual suspects (you're out of gas, the car isn't in park or neutral, etc.) you'll probably want to get a jump-start.

For a jump-start, you'll need two ingredients: another car and jumper cables. Have a friend or neighbor pull their car up in front of yours so that the two cars are facing one another. Then open the hoods on both cars and follow these steps:

1. Both cars should be in "park" or "neutral" with the ignition off.

2. Connect the cables to both cars in the following sequence:

First, attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal (the one with "+" or "POS" on it) of your battery.

Second, attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of your friend's battery.

Third, attach the black clip to the negative terminal (the one with "—" or "NEG" on it) of your friend's battery.

Finally, attach the other black clip to an unpainted surface on your car that isn't near the carburetor

3. Try to start your car. If it doesn't start, double-check that the cables are securely attached. Then have your friend start his or her car. They should let it run for a couple of minutes.

4. Now try to start your car again. Wow! How'd that happen? Basically, you used your friend's battery to start your car.

5. Keep your car running! Disconnect the cables. Thank your friend profusely. Drive your car for fifteen or twenty minutes to re-charge your battery. If it discharges again, then there's something wrong with the battery and/or electrical system that requires a mechanic's attention.

IV. Tools & Supplies

Preparation involves knowing what to do in an emergency, but it also involves having the right tools to do it. A well-prepared motorist should have a basic tool kit in the trunk at all times. A full set of tools gives you the most protection, but you can pick and choose from the following, depending what kind of emergencies you're prepared to handle yourself:

Screwdrivers, both standard and Philips head;
Combination wrenches;
Offset wrenches;
Socket wrenches;
Adjustable wrenches;
Hammers;
Pliers;
Torque wrenches…
Tire changing tools, jack, lug wrench, etc;
Tire gauge;
Screwdrivers.

In addition to tools, you should carry a well-stocked first-aid kit. Your car takes you far afield of your home and work. Band-Aids, aspirin, tampons, tissues, toilet paper--these are conveniences that take up minimal space but can make your life much easier.

Tires: Everything You Wanted to Know (But Were Afraid to Ask)

2008-01-30T10:02:00.000-08:00

Do your tires sag a bit, as if they could benefit from a gym membership? Do your tires bring to mind Montel Williams, Captain Picard, or Yul Brynner? Do you own a tire pressure gauge? (And if so, do you know where it is?)

If you’re like me, you take your tires for granted. You’re not sure what condition they’re in, whether you need new ones, or even how to shop for tires. And if you’re like me, this uncertainty makes you a little nervous, because we all know that bad tires can lead to bad accidents.

What Is a Tire, Anyway?

Oh my--a tire is so many things. Historically, it’s a descendant of the wheel, mankind’s first step toward industrial progress. Philosophically, it is a circle, a symbol of eternity, of that which never ends, of freedom. Scientifically, a tire is the device that acts against the inertia of your car, moving it, stopping it, and fighting centrifugal force at every turn.

But most importantly, a tire is what keeps you from being plastered to the roadway like an unfortunate opossum.

To learn more about tires, I visited a local tire store and beleaguered my anonymous source–we’ll call him Deep Tread (what else?)–with questions. He kindly showed me a slice from a real tire. It looked something like the letter U.

Body: The body of a tire (also tastefully called "the carcass") is made of synthetic or natural rubber. It includes chemicals to reinforce the rubber, keep it from degrading, and help it adhere to the road.

Bead: See those little flaps at the top of the U? Those represent the tire’s beads, the steel-cable-reinforced inner edges of the tire that seal against the tire’s rim.

Cords: Running through the body of a tire from bead to bead are strong polyester cords that help smooth your ride. Most car tires today are radial tires, which means that the polyester cords run straight across the tire from bead to bead. This particular formation decreases rolling resistance and increases tread life and gas mileage.

Sidewalls: The sides of the U represent the sidewalls. All sorts of information about the tire is molded into the outside sidewall, and several cosmetic options are available (including whitewalls, solid white letters, outline white letters, etc.).

Treads: At the bottom of the U is an extra pad of rubber forming the treads, the part of the tire that makes contact with the road. The channels between the treads, which siphon away water and allow air circulation, are called sipes.

Steel belts: Between the treads and the polyester cording you will find one or two steel belts (hence the term "steel-belted radials") that protect against punctures and keep the tread area firm, increasing your gas mileage.

Tire Maintenance

Before I started on this article, I’d gone out and bought a spankin’ new set of tires. The tires that came with my car (the original equipment, or "OE" in auto lingo) had exceeded their life expectancy by so many miles that I considered them among the living dead.

I worried that my tires had worn to fragile membranes that would rupture on the highway. I feared I would spiral out of control, gore chunks from nearby cars, perform a sloppy double tuck over the highway median, and (if I was lucky) barely escape the massive explosion that would launch me and my hunky male protagonist through the air only to land–singed, breathless, and wildly attracted to each other–on the gravel shoulder. Lucky indeed.

I went to the tire shop, told them the make, model, and year of my car, and said I wanted tires that would last for 80,000 miles. Their computer told them what size tires to use, and they chose the particular tires from their stock (based, I believe, on whether they had a matching set of four). The price they quoted seemed reasonable, and a few hours later, I was feeling much better with my new tires.

I may have bought myself peace of mind, but did I buy good tires? Did I even need new tires?

Here is what I should have done before I replaced my tires (and what I should have been doing once a month). These maintenance steps will keep your tires safe and happy, which in turn keeps you safe and happy. You’ll get more miles out of your tires, and you may even improve your gas mileage.

Check Your Tread Depth

Got a penny? (If not, check between your sofa cushions.) Stick Mr. Lincoln headfirst into the channels between your tire treads. If you can see all of his head, your treads are too shallow (they should be at least 1/16" deep) and you need new tires. Some tires are made to show flat bands across the treads when it’s time to replace the tire. Chances are, Mr. Lincoln’s head will be partially hidden by the treads, indicating your tires are safe. But while you’re down there, remove any embedded pebbles or other debris; these can work their way into your tire, causing a leak. If you see no treads at all and you’re not the owner of an Indy race car, walk–don’t drive–to the tire store.

Check Your Air Pressure

My anonymous source, Deep Tread, confided that most of his customers arrive at the shop with under-inflated tires. As it turns out, under-inflation is the leading cause of tire failure, not punctures.

You know all those pieces of tire you see on the highway? They’re known as road alligators. Most people think road gators are the detached treads from retreaded tires (see the links below), but most road gators are actually from new tires that were under-inflated.

If your tire treads are more worn on the outside edges than in the middle, under-inflation is probably the culprit. On the other hand, over-inflation decreases a tire’s traction and causes excessive wear in the middle of the tread. Proper inflation maximizes traction, minimizes tread wear, increases gas mileage, and keeps you safe.

If you have a tire-pressure gauge and you know where it is, good for you. You’re doing better than I am. (Don’t have a pressure gauge? You can buy one for cheap from the Tire Industry Safety Council.)

Now check your air pressure. (See Car Care Basics for instructions.)

Is your air pressure correct?

Sorry, that was a trick question! You have no way of knowing what the correct pressure is for your tires until you look in one of 3 places:

1. Your trusty but neglected owner’s manual (which may refer you to #2 below);

2. The tire placard, a sticker located somewhere on your car (probably on a doorpost, on the edge of a door, or behind the gas panel);

3. The tire itself. (Molded right into the sidewall of your tires is the maximum pressure to which the tires can be inflated. Never exceed that amount.)

Now do you know whether your air pressure is correct? Not necessarily. Measuring tire pressure can be tricky. Because air expands when it warms, a tire with the same amount of air in it will have a higher psi (pounds per square inch) measurement in the summer than in the winter.

The same thing happens when you drive: the tire heats up, and air pressure increases 2-6 psi as a result. Remember that you should always measure the pressure when your tire is cold–after the car has been parked for at least three hours. If you need to drive to a service station to check your air pressure, drive no more than one mile.

If you’ve read your owner’s manual or tire placard and measured your air pressure, you now know whether your tires need more air. Service stations usually have an air compressor you can use for free to fill your tires. If the machine has a pressure gauge, don’t trust it–exposure or abuse (even psychos with crowbars need properly inflated tires) can make it inaccurate. Double-check with your own pressure gauge.

A tire can lose 1-2 pounds of pressure every month in cold weather, more in warm weather. Check all your tires (ideally) once a week or (at least) once a month–and that means your spare, too. After all, what good is your spare if it is as flat as the tire you’re replacing? If you have a compact temporary spare, refer to your owner’s manual for its proper inflation pressure.

Rotation, Balancing, and Alignment

Rotation means moving your wheels from one axle to another and from one side of your car to another. Have your tires rotated regularly, at least every 6,000 miles. (Check your tire warranty to see how often you must rotate your tires to keep the warranty valid.) Rotation will make your tires wear more evenly and last longer. Deep Tread recommends that you have your tires rotated every other oil change. (You are changing your oil every 3,000 miles, right?)

Balancing your wheels fixes uneven weight distribution around your tire. After your tire specialist places the tire on the rim, he uses a machine to determine the heaviest point on each side of the tire. He will then place a weight opposite these points. Balancing keeps your car from shuddering at high speeds.

Your wheels should be aligned any time you buy new tires. According to Deep Tread, improper alignment can cause your car to pull to one side and can create uneven wear on your tires.

How to Buy New Tires

Before you plunk down your hard-earned nickels, make sure you understand what you’re buying.

Read Your Tire

If you’re in the market for new tires, start with the fine print. The Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) not only set the safety requirements for tire manufacture, but also stipulate that the manufacturer must mold all sorts of useful information right onto the tire itself. (Click here for a good visual guide from Goodyear.) Your tire will tell you how it’s constructed, how big it is, and what load it can carry, just for starters. All of this information will also appear on a sticker placed on the treads of the tire.

Among the most useful information on the sidewall of a tire is the Uniform Tire Quality Grading System (UTQG) rating for treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance. On your tire, the rating looks like this: "TREADWEAR 400 TRACTION A TEMPERATURE B," or simply "400 A B." The UTQG was established by the federal government to help buyers compare tires. (Since the tire manufacturers grade their own tires, keep in mind that the UTQG rating may be more useful when comparing tires from the same manufacturer.)

Treadwear

The treadwear grade is not based on the actual mileage you will get out of your tire, but on the life expectancy of your tire relative to that of a tire graded 100. A tire graded 200 will last twice as long as a 100 tire. My tire is graded 560, so it will last 5.6 times longer than a tire graded 100 by this manufacturer.

Traction

The traction grading is very important. What else is your tire for but to provide traction? As you may have heard, your brakes don’t stop your car–the tires do. The best traction grade is AA, followed by A, B, and C. Tires graded C meet the minimum FMVSS standards.

Temperature Resistance

Simply put, temperature resistance is your tire’s ability to resist heat buildup and to dissipate heat. If your tires get too hot, the rubber can start to break down. Extremely high temperatures can even cause your tire to blow. If you ever plan to drive for more than an hour at highway speeds, it’s best to get tires with a higher temperature grade. The highest is A, followed by B, then C. As with traction, a tire graded C meets the minimum FMVSS standards. My tires are graded B, which is less than I would have chosen had I done my research, since I often drive at highway speeds for prolonged periods.

Types of Tires

Now that you understand how tires are rated, you’ll need to choose the type of tire that best suits your car and your driving habits.

All-Season Tires

Your basic tire is the all-season tire, designed to handle a certain amount of rain, mud, and snow. If you have an all-season tire, your sidewall will carry the designation M+S for "mud and snow." Your basic tire is also interchangeable–the same tire can go in any position on your car.

Performance Tires

High-performance cars, especially those with rear-wheel drive, may come with performance tires instead of all-season tires. Performance tires are made of a softer rubber designed to stick snugly to the road, and therefore don’t last as long as all-season tires. Their treads also don’t handle snow very well.

Snow Tires and Tire Chains

Deep Tread informs me that snow tires, all but abandoned in favor of the all-season tire, are making a comeback with owners of high-performance cars. Snow tires can handle winter better than performance tires, so some car owners are storing their performance tires in the winter. If you’re thinking about getting studded snow tires or chains for your regular tires, check to see if your community allows their use, and when.

Directional Tires

Some brands of tires are directional, meaning that the tread pattern must face the same direction on all four tires. Tires designed to handle a lot of water on the road are often directional, with the direction of rotation indicated on the tire’s sidewall. As many Corvette owners know, tires can also come in pairs: a left tire and a right tire. If you own or buy this kind of tire, remember to point them out to the service technician when you have them rotated.

Get the Biggest Bang for Your Buck

Okay, perhaps "bang" isn’t the best word to use when discussing tires, but you know what I mean. When you buy tires, know what you’re paying for. Wheel balancing and alignment should be included, and many dealers offer lifetime tire-rotation service.

Your invoice may also include a tire disposal fee, as mine did. Ask your dealer what will happen to your old tires. Deep Tread informed me that his old tires are recycled, which gave me a warm glow. Then I asked how they were recycled. I was disappointed to hear that in my area, the primary recycling options seem to be shredding the tires for use on landfill roadbeds and burning the tires for fuel. (That must be where my warm glow came from.)

If recycling tires is important to you, call around and try to find a dealer who sends tires to be retreaded. If you’re really into recycling, you may even consider buying retreads yourself, rather than new tires.

Rubber manufacturers are also researching ways to reclaim the raw materials from tires for other uses. Make sure your tires aren’t going to be dumped in a big pile with 10,000 other used tires–such tire dumps are fire hazards and prime mosquito breeding grounds. (Mosquitoes lay their eggs in water that has collected in the tires.)

Tire Dos and Don’ts

Do be aware that the use of aerosol tire inflators and sealants–handy as they may be when you have a flat–can void your tire warranty.

Do make sure to tell your tire repair person if you used an aerosol inflator or sealant. The gases forced into your tire are flammable, and a metal-on-metal spark could cause a movie-worthy explosion. Plus, in the words of my tire-store sources, spray inflators also make the inside of a tire "goopy and icky."

Don’t judge your tire pressure by how your tire looks. Hint: squinting one eye and kicking the tire won’t help. Radial tires are notorious for looking low on pressure when they’re not.

Do, if you are changing your own flat tire (or directing the poor schlep who is), put your compact temporary spare on your rear axle if you have front-wheel drive and on your front axle if you have rear-wheel drive. Your best tires should be on the drive axle.

Don’t, if you are stuck in mud, ice, or snow, spin your tires madly in an effort to escape. This can cause severe heat buildup and can make your tire explode like beans in a microwave.

Do, if you are stuck in mud, ice, or snow, rock your vehicle gently back and forth by shifting from drive or second gear to reverse. It may not get you unstuck, but your tires won’t explode. If you can’t get out, call a tow truck.

Don't drive with less than the recommended air pressure in your tires during the winter. Many people allow their tire pressure to dip 5 psi below recommendations under the misconception that doing so will improve traction on ice and snow. It won't, and you may damage your tires.

Do check your winter tire pressure: as the weather gets colder, the air pressure in your tire will naturally drop as the air cools and compresses. Add the necessary amount of air to keep your tires inflated properly.

Tire Terminology

bead: the cable reinforced edge of a tire that forms the seal with the rim.

bias-ply: a tire with cording running diagonally across the tire from bead to bead.

carcass: the rubber body of a tire.

cording: polyester cord that reinforces the rubber body of the tire.

FMVSS: Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.

psi: pounds per square inch, a measurement of air pressure.

radial: a tire with polyester cording running straight across the width of the tire from bead to bead.

retread: a used tire that has had the original tread buffed off and replaced with a new tread.

rim: the metal "center" of the wheel that holds the tire.

sipe: the channels or grooves between the raised treads.

steel belt: a strong woven steel mesh that makes the tread area stronger and firmer.

tread: the part of the tire that makes contact with the ground.

UTQG: Uniform Tire Quality Grading System.

wheel: the rubber tire and the metal rim together.

Get on the Stick

2008-01-30T10:01:00.000-08:00

When I learned how to drive a stick shift, I became a woman. Or rather, I stopped thinking of myself as girlish and started thinking of myself as womanly. Those of you who drive a stick know exactly what I mean.

For starters, you know how good it feels to debunk the old myth that women don't drive stick, that standard transmissions are the province of hairy-chested men in red sports cars. Truth be told, it's a silly myth anyway. The split over automatic and manual transmissions isn't so much a male/female thing as it is an American thing.

This year, only 10% of U.S. cars will be manufactured with standard transmissions. By contrast, most cars sold Europe today have standard transmissions. (Chalk it up to Europe's astronomical gas prices--standards are more fuel-efficient than automatics).

Of course, once upon a time, standard transmissions reigned in the U.S. as well. In 1950, virtually all automobiles were manually controlled. Automatic transmissions were a product of technology during World War II, but it wasn't until 1955 that automatic transmissions became an option. (Oddly enough, in sales jargon, automatic transmissions are still considered an "option," even though 90% of buyers choose automatics.)

Debunking gender myths is fine and good, but standard transmissions offer something even more important: Control. My introduction to the joys of stick came when my husband and I were shopping for our first new car. Sure, we'd had other cars, but this was different. No hand-me-downs like our red 1975 Chevy Impala, a gas-guzzling behemoth bigger than Yemen, or our 1974 Olds '98, a Percy Milquetoast of a car nicknamed "the Goose" for the ear-splitting honk it emitted whenever we turned a corner.

Worst of all was our Trojan horse — a pale yellow Plymouth Horizon Spider Miser, named for its anorexic fuel appetite and a spider decal that covered the entire hood. (How's that for an option?) In a completely misguided gesture of generosity, my in-laws had made the $1000 down payment on this mutant without consulting us first, leaving us with $250 monthly payments we couldn't even afford.

I hated that car and it hated me back. The door locks would freeze in the slightest chill, forcing me to climb through the hatchback in my office parking lot. And once it tried to ruin my reputation, if not my career, by coughing up a pair of panties in the front passenger seat, a la Pet Sematary, when I was assigned to drive a political dignitary to an appointment. (They weren't even nice panties.)

We were overdue for a change of image. This was during the mid-1980s recession, height of the Japanese import invasion, and my ever-practical husband thought a Honda Accord was the way to go. In a serendipitous twist of fate, we ended up going to see a used Honda at a Saab dealership.

While my husband talked loans and interest rates with a rather languid, suspiciously blonde salesman, I saw it. Love at first sight. A 1985 black Saab 900 Turbo SPG with a sleek, curvy hard-body and saddle-brown leather seats. It was, in a word, me. Or rather, the me I wanted to be, the me I decided to be right then and there.

In a single prescient moment, I did a most unladylike thing. I interrupted.

"That's the one," I said. "I want that car."

The salesman turned and really looked at me for the first time.

"It's a beautiful car," he said, with an ever-so-slight smile, "but it has a standard transmission. Can you drive a stick?"

His voice was measured, a tone usually reserved for people wearing braces on their heads. It was my cue for a girlish giggle or a lapse into self-deprecation. Instead I peeled my gaze from the Black Swede and slowly focused on the salesman as if I were dimly aware of his presence and mildly surprised he could speak. It was a trick I knew from working in politics, where people make careers out of dissing each other in subtle and untraceable ways.

"No," I said flatly. "But for that car, I will learn."

Of course, this was easier said than done. Like changing a typewriter ribbon, driving a stick is one of those skills that's fallen victim to the technological age--among men and women. But my motivation was literally a driving force: I had to learn how to operate a stick shift in order to drive the Saab to work.

The task of teaching me fell to my husband. Unfortunately, he gets motion sickness just watching a tot dance the Hokey Pokey. But he stuck with me as I lurched and surged my beautiful car through unfamiliar neighborhoods, killing the engine, popping the clutch, grinding the gears, and breaking into a flop-sweat whenever anyone pulled up behind me at a stop sign. All the while, my husband's head whipped around like John Travolta's on the mechanical bull in Urban Cowboy. At one point, he got so nauseous, he jumped out of the car and lay on a stranger's front lawn in an attempt to anchor himself in a world spinning wildly out of control.

For my part, I'd never known what a full-body workout driving a car could be--finding the balance between the clutch and the brake and the accelerator (three pedals, but only two feet), not to mention the simultaneous upper body demands of handling the steering wheel and the stick. Saabs tend to have sticky shifts, something I learned to enjoy later--the feel of muscling the car into gear--but early on, I felt like a groping adolescent manhandling the car to get to third base, er, gear.

Even today, standard transmissions are standard on most Saab models. Now Saab is a division of GM, having been spun off from its Swedish parent, a manufacturer of aircraft. In a nod to its aviation beginnings, the ignition is on the floor by the gearshift, making that twist of the key feel like you're powering up heavy machinery. Saabs park in reverse, start in neutral, and have five gears. The first is a mere howdy-do. Turbo kicks in with second, picks up power with third, finds its level with fourth, and hits cruising altitude with fifth.

Once I got the hang of it, I was hooked. I learned to listen and feel the vibrations of the engine, sensing its readiness for a higher or lower gear. While I drove, I thought about the obvious metaphors--how important it is to sense the changes in the undercurrents of your life and shift accordingly--up to avoid collision, down on rough terrain. As I gained confidence with the stick, I mused on subjects like Chinese foot-binding, wondering if that barbaric practice was really much different than the silly way women--myself included--sometimes hobble themselves with can't and shouldn't. And I thought about my grandmother, a twentieth-century anachronism who died in 1991. She was 90 years old, and she never learned how to drive, leaving herself completely dependent on others--a picture of self-effacing girlishness to the bitter end.

I know you're waiting for the Freudian references, and you won't get them from me. Okay, maybe one. Freud asked, "What do women really want?" I think women want control over their own destinies. We want to know that in the B-movie of life, if Swamp Thing is chasing us and we have to save a school bus full of orphans, we won't faint, or worse, sit there saying "But I can't drive a stick!" Girls want someone to save them. But a woman--a real woman, the kind that waits for no Steven Seagal--would grind the clutch, pop the bus into reverse, flatten Swamp Thing, and move it on up to cruising speed, aiming for open road, resting her right hand lightly on the smooth knob of the stick.

How to Negotiate a Fair Settlement when Your Car Has Been Totaled

2008-01-30T09:55:00.000-08:00

Grit your teeth and picture this: You're driving to work one morning, minding your own business, when suddenly a large truck runs a red light and smashes into your car, spinning you off the road and into a pole. When the world finally comes to a stop, you are happy to discover that you're still alive. You are happy you were wearing your seatbelt. You are happy that you didn't pee in your pants.

You aren't so happy, though, when you climb out and survey the damage. Your car--that trusty Honda Accord--is a goner. The front end looks like an elephant sat on it.

As if you weren't feeling cheery enough, the insurance adjuster calls a few days later and tells you that your car is a "total loss." This is the news you were dreading...

Welcome to the School of Hard Knocks

When your car is totaled in an accident, it's usually a lose-lose situation. Not only will the insurance company try to give you as little money as possible, but you'll also have to spend time (and often additional money) shopping for a replacement car.

However, you don't have to let a wrecked car wreck your life. With a little homework and smart negotiation, you can ensure that you get a fair settlement.

How a Claim Works

An insurance claim for an auto accident will result in a property-damage settlement and--if injuries are involved--a personal-injury settlement. These two kinds of settlements are calculated separately. This article deals only with property-damage settlements. (For advice on settling personal injury claims, visit How to Negotiate a Fair Personal Injury Settlement.)

After the accident, the insurance adjuster will examine the damage to you car and decide whether it can be repaired or whether it's headed for the junkyard. If it can be repaired, you'll go through a process of obtaining estimates from repair shops. If it's a total loss, the adjuster will offer you a settlement (a sum of money) for your car.

Notwithstanding all those touchy-feely insurance commercials, you and your adjuster will be at crossed purposes. You want him to write a big check; he wants to write a little one--it's as simple as that. (One of the ways insurance companies make money is by maximizing the premiums they collect and minimizing the settlements they pay out.)

What Is a "Total Loss"?

Here's how it works: When the cost of repairing a wrecked car exceeds 70% of its value, insurance companies will generally "total" the car rather than pay to have it fixed. In other words, they will buy the car from you and then sell it for scrap. If you own an older car (i.e. one with a relatively low book value), chances are that your car will be totaled in any significant accident.

Who Determines What the Car Is Worth?

The insurance adjuster will determine a value for your car. However, used-car values aren't carved in stone, and neither is the adjuster's figure. That's where your homework and smart negotiation will come into play.

If, in the end, you're unable to arrive at a mutually agreeable figure, you can always sue the insurance company, but that's expensive and time-consuming for both parties, and neither you nor the adjuster really wants to go to court.

How Is the Car's Value Determined?

In deciding how much to pay you for your car, the insurance company considers only the vehicle's current market value in your geographical region. They do not take into account the car's value to you--your emotional attachment to it, the peace of mind you enjoyed from knowing the car's history, or the time and effort you put into regular repair and maintenance. (Yep--more hard knocks.)

The insurance adjuster will begin by consulting a used-car price guide. The three top price guides are published by the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) (http://www.nadaguides.com/), Kelley Blue Book (http://www.kbb.com/), and Edmunds Used Car Prices & Rating (http://www.edmunds.com/). Most insurance companies prefer NADA.

The adjuster may also assemble a list of comparables--cars like yours that are currently being offered for sale in your area. The advertised prices for these comparables will be used to establish a value for your car by means of (you guessed it) comparison.

Do Your Homework

Before you meet with the adjuster, you should do your own research on your car's market value and have in mind a settlement amount that's acceptable to you. You'll basically be using the same approach as the adjuster.

Start with the price-guides (NADA, Kelley Blue Book, and Edmunds). All three offer free value quotes on their websites. Be sure to print out the values so you'll have documentation to show the adjuster. (Note: The price guides will provide you with both trade-in values and retail values. The settlement will be based on a retail value, which is the same thing as a "market value.")

Chances are, your research will turn up a range of values. Take the car in our example--a Honda Accord EX 2-Door Coupe with 100,000 miles, in excellent condition (before the wreck, that is.)

On September 19, a price-guide search produced the following average market values:

Edmunds Used Car Prices & Rating: $6,675
Kelley Blue Book: $6,075
NADA: $6,250 ($7,325 high retail value)

As you can see, the values differ by as much as $600 (or $1,250, if you take into account NADA's high retail figure).

Chances are, the insurance adjuster will offer you a settlement near the low end of the range. Your job is to convince him to settle near the high end of the range.

Make a list of any factors that would increase the value of your car beyond "average" retail, such as low mileage, aftermarket upgrades and add-ons (such as a new stereo system), and non-standard options. (The price guides will specify which options are standard for your make, model, and year.)

Next, compile your own list of comparables. Start with your local newspaper's classified ads. Many newspapers have websites that will allow you to search the classified ads of many papers in your region or state. You may also consult local car-trader magazines, which can be purchased at most gas stations and convenience stores.

When possible, find cars exactly like yours--same make, model, and year, with comparable mileage and condition. You're looking for the most expensive ones you can find. Once you've identified a handful of such cars, clip or print the ads so you can show them to the adjuster.

You probably won't be able to find cars identical to your own, but come as close as you can. The more accurate the comparables, the stronger your negotiating position.

Car values often vary by region, and you want an insurance settlement that will allow you to replace your car without your having to travel hundreds of miles to find one at the right price.

Ideally, your comparables will exceed the price-guide values. When you negotiate with the adjuster, your argument will go something like this: "I know the NADA guide says my Honda is worth $6,250, but as you can see from my comparables, I can't replace the car here in Bloomington for any less than $7,000."

Go back to the newspaper website and check your comparables periodically to see if any of them have sold. Documenting such sales makes your case stronger. The adjuster may look at one of your comparables and say, "That's not a realistic comp. That guy may be asking $8,000 for his 1991 Accord, but he'll never get that much." And then you can smile and say, "Oh, but he did."

Finally, call your local Department of Motor Vehicles and ask what costs are associated with the purchase of a car. Typical costs include:

A title transfer fee.
A license-plate transfer fee.
An emissions test fee (if they're required in your state).
Sales tax.

You'll want the insurance settlement to cover these fees and taxes in addition to the value of your car.

Rental Cars

The insurance company is also obliged to supply you with a rental car until you can buy a replacement car. The first time you speak with the adjuster, ask which rental company they use, and how to arrange payment. In general, you can expect the insurance company to provide a car for a period beginning on the day of the accident and lasting 7-10 days after you receive the settlement, which should give you enough time to buy another car. Usually, you're entitled to a rental car comparable in size to your own.

After you've settled the claim and returned the rental car, it's a good idea to check back with the adjuster to make sure he's taken care of the billing. If he forget, the rental-car company will try to stick you with the bill.

A Word about Adjusters

Before you negotiate with an adjuster, it's helpful to have an understanding of his job. Like most of us, adjusters have bosses, and those bosses want the adjuster to settle claims as quickly and cheaply as possible. An adjuster who goes around handing out high settlements will soon find himself in the unemployment line.

In the long run, the adjuster's goal is to minimize the amount of money he pays out to claimants. However, the average adjuster, faced with a constant stream of claims, will end up over-paying on some claims and under-paying on others.

It stands to reason, then, that an adjuster is more likely to over-pay on a small claim than on a large claim. In other words, if you're negotiating on a $2,000 car instead of a $20,000 car, the adjuster may be more flexible.

Also, most adjusters are authorized to write a check up to a certain amount with no questions asked from their supervisor. This amount depends upon the adjuster. More experienced adjusters will generally be allowed to write bigger checks without having to consult their supervisors for approval.

It's also worth noting that adjusters have more leeway in personal-injury settlements than in property-damage settlements. On a $5,000 car, for instance, the adjuster may have only $500 wiggle-room to negotiate. If you're shooting for a figure well above market value, you'll probably be out of luck.

Tips for Negotiating with Adjusters

At some point--either in person or over the phone--the adjuster will offer you a settlement amount for your car. By now, you've done your homework and arrived at a settlement figure you're willing to accept. If the adjuster's figure is less, the negotiation process begins. Follow these tips to insure that you get a fair settlement.

First of all, be calm and polite at all times. Insurance adjusters deal with angry people all day long. If you're rude to the adjuster, he can play hardball with you and not feel bad about it. Let the adjuster see you for what you are--a nice, honest person who's just trying to get a fair shake.
Let the adjuster make the first offer. You don't want to say, "I'll take $6,000 and not a penny less!" because for all you know, the adjuster was prepared to pay $6,500.
If the adjuster offers you a low settlement, politely ask him how he arrived at his figure. If he used one of the price guides, have your (higher) figures from the other price guides handy.
If the adjuster compiled a list of comparables, ask to see them. Look for weaknesses in his list. Did your car have any options (such automatic transmission or air conditioning) that are missing from his comparables? Are his comparables drawn from a distant region? The argument you're trying to make is that your (higher) comparables are in fact more accurate and applicable than his are.
When an adjuster does over-pay on a claim (that is, when he ends up paying more than his initial offer), he needs to have some documentation to justify the settlement. By providing him with this documentation yourself (your price-guide research and comparables), you make his job easier, and you demonstrate to him that you are well prepared and well informed (i.e. not some dupe that he'll be able to under-pay).
If your adjuster makes a low offer and he's unwilling to budge, ask to speak with his supervisor. This, however, should be a last resort--once you go over the adjuster's head, you'll be on his black list.
AFTER the adjuster has made an offer you find satisfactory, tell him thanks, you'll accept the settlement IF he'll also kick in money to cover sales tax, title transfer, plate transfer, and (if it's required in your state) an emissions test. At this point, he'll be eager to settle the claim and probably give you the additional money (which should be included in the settlement anyway, and he knows it). Also, if you've paid for a rental car out-of-pocket, be sure that's included in the settlement, too.

Glossary

Comparables - Cars for sale which are used to help establish the value of your (totaled) car by means of comparison.

Insurance adjuster - Insurance company employee who negotiates and settles claims (i.e. the person who writes you the check).

Property-damage settlement - The money an insurance company pays to repair or replace your car, plus additional costs such as a rental car.

Personal-injury settlement - The money an insurance company pays to compensate you for injuries sustained in an accident, including medical bills, lost wages, etc.

Settlement - Sum of money paid to you by the insurance company, usually in the form of a check. Your acceptance of this check constitutes the "settling" of the claim.

Six Ways to Avoid Auto-Repair Rip-Offs

2008-01-30T09:51:00.000-08:00

Last year, auto-repair complaints ranked fourth among consumer beefs received by the Better Business Bureau. And little wonder. Few of us are lucky enough to know mechanics we trust (despite the fact that, by all accounts, there are plenty of honest mechanics out there). Before we even walk through the door, we're convinced the mechanic is going to take us for a ride. This consumer mistrust is compounded by two important factors: One, most car owners know little about auto repair, and two, there's often a lot of money at stake.

But dealing with a mechanic doesn't have to be frustrating and scary. Here are six things you can do to avoid getting ripped off, and to help your mechanic serve you as best he or she can.

1. Don't sign a vague or open-ended repair order.

Motorists frequently sign the "RO" (car talk for repair order) before they read it. This important piece of paper helps the technician decide where to begin solving your car's problem, so the information must be as specific as possible in order to ensure that the job is done right the first time. "Check transmission performance" or "Repair transmission" are too vague. The repair order should specifically detail the symptoms of your car's problem. For example: "Check for late downshifting and clunking noise during the first ten minutes of warm up." In this case, the repair order should also include the speed at which the downshifting and clunking occurs, whether you're decelerating or accelerating, and any other information that you think is pertinent. The more specific, the better.

The RO should NOT include a diagnosis--that's the mechanic's job. A service writer (the person who writes up your RO) is typically hired for his or her sales skills, not knowledge of cars.

The RO also authorizes the shop to do whatever work is detailed in the document. In other words, when you sign it, you're giving them the go-ahead. So read it over carefully before you sign it, and if it isn't accurate, insist that it be changed.

2. Always get a written estimate.

How many times have I seen it? A motorist arrives to pick up her newly repaired vehicle and is greeted by a "surprise" bill for hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dollars. Don't let this happen to you. Whenever there are unknowns, get a written estimate. (Many states have laws requiring that repair shops provide you with written estimates.) If a shop insists they can't provide an estimate until they pull your engine or transmission apart, take your car elsewhere, even if it means having it towed.

Your estimate should list a maximum possible charge. If you're looking at major transmission or engine work, the estimate ought to include the cost to disassemble, diagnose, and reassemble the component.

And remember, just because a repair shop diagnoses your problem, you aren't obligated to have them do the work. You may decide to have the job done at another shop, or, at the very least, you may take your car elsewhere for a second opinion.

3. Always ask that your old parts be returned to you.

When I recommend that motorists ask for their old parts, they sometimes ask me, "Why bother? I wouldn't know one part from another." It's true that most people can't recognize all but the most common car parts, and it's true that the mechanic could likely fool you by providing a part that didn't actually come off of your car. Nevertheless, by taking the precautionary step of asking for your parts, you're at least making it more awkward and difficult for a dishonest person to rip you off. Plus, merely asking the question sends the signal that you're a savvy consumer.

Remember to make this request before the mechanic begins work on your car; otherwise, your old parts will likely end up in a bin and you'll never see them again. And for cleanliness, request that the parts be placed in a plastic bag.

4. Take your car for a road test and clearly identify the symptoms of your problem before you visit the repair shop.

Many motorists arrive at the repair shop unprepared. A five- or ten-minute road test--without such distractions as the kids, dogs, or dripping cream-filled doughnuts (as good as they are)--will help you to identify your ailing car's symptoms.

Mind you, I didn't say diagnose--that, again, is the mechanic's job. Your job is to identify the problem's symptoms and conditions as clearly and completely as possible. To correctly road test your vehicle, you may have to drive it under a variety of different conditions: at different speeds, in different gears, on bumpy roads, on smooth roads, uphill, downhill, with the AC on and off, with the windows open and closed, etc.

Remember: Car repair is a two-way street. In order for your mechanic to do the job correctly and efficiently, it's important that you provide as much information about the problem as possible.

5. When you pick up your newly repaired car, leave sufficient time for a test drive.

If you pick up your car one minute before the shop closes, and then you discover, on the way home, that the problem still isn't fixed, you could find yourself back at the repair shop the next day, getting blue in the face with a mechanic who insists that the problem is a new one and intends to charge you accordingly.

When you pick up your car, you should allow yourself at least twenty minutes to examine the bill and road test the vehicle. After your test drive, if you're not completely satisfied that the problem has been corrected, take your car back to the shop immediately. Talk to the manager, explain your concern, and ask them to conduct a road test with you in the car. Get the manager to acknowledge in writing that the repair was not done correctly. The person you talk to today may not be at the shop tomorrow, so the more documentation you have, the better--especially if the problem isn't fixed to your satisfaction on the second or third try.

6. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

Good mechanics are like good teachers--they know there is no such thing as a stupid question. So don't be shy. Go over each item on the bill, ask questions about anything you don't understand, and pursue your line of questioning until you get an answer that makes sense to you. A good service provider will take the extra five or ten minutes to explain, in your language--not car talk--the nature of the problem, and what repairs were made. Don't be afraid to say: "I followed you right up until the part about the scratchaframerwritzits, but you lost me after that."

For many of us right-brained folks, words don't always register like they should. If you still have trouble following your mechanic's explanation, ask to be shown (or drawn) a picture, or to see the actual part on the car. And don't forget to thank your mechanic when he or she explains something particularly well.

Everything You Wanted to Know about Motor Oil (But Were Afraid to Ask)

2008-01-29T15:27:00.000-08:00

If you're like me, you've never give much thought to motor oil. You know that it's important to your car; you know that it lubricates your engine; you know that you really, really should change it every 3,000 miles. What else is there to know?

As it turns out, a lot. Let's say you're conducting your weekly car check-up when you discover that your oil is low. Or--if you haven't been conducting your weekly check-ups--let's say you're driving along and that ominous oil light comes on. (Take a look at Car Care 101 if you want to make sure you never find yourself in this position.)

Either way, you need to top off your oil. No sweat, right? You'll just swing over to your local auto supply store to buy an extra quart. But at the store you discover--in a long, mystifying row of shelves--a dizzying assortment of different types and brands of motor oil. It's worse even than the shampoo aisle at the supermarket.

Which oil is right for your car? What happens if you pick the wrong one? And why is that clerk snickering at you?

You'll find the answers to these questions and more in our one-stop guide to oil literacy...

Read Your Owner's Manual

Whether you're at a mom-and-pop gas station or an auto-parts superstore, the motor oil aisle can be confusing-if you don't know how to read the labels. 10W-40, 5W-30, 15W-50 . . . what's it all mean?

First things first: READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL. I have always been too lazy to do this until recently. I discovered that my owner's manual is really quite informative. Once I got past the holographic foil logo on the cover (oooh, aaah) I perused the index and found an entry for "Oil, Engine, Recommendation." Bingo.

While flipping to the correct page, I discovered an engine maintenance schedule, a diagram of the engine showing where the various engine fluids are to be added and where dipsticks are located (very handy), and finally, the recommended oil for my car: 5W-30. Chances are your manual will say the same thing if your car was made after 1989. My manual gives me the added flexibility of choosing 10W-40 under certain conditions. (More about that later.)

While you're reading the manual, it's also a good idea to check if the use of certain types (or grades) of engine oil will void your warranty, and if synthetic oil or oil additives are recommended for your car.

How to Read a Motor Oil Label

5W-30: What does that mean? And what's the difference between that and 10W-40? Is a higher number better? Or is it like golf, where the lower number is more desirable? Me, I always confuse 10W-40 with WD-40. (Luckily, I know better than to spray the oil on my engine.) However, my confusion always predisposed me to choose 10W-40, which as we now know, was the wrong choice. (Oops.)

The numbers on a motor oil label indicate the viscosity (also known as the grade) of the oil. Viscosity is the thickness of the oil. More precisely, it is a measure of how well the oil flows at a given temperature. Oil is like molasses--it pours better off the shelf than out of the refrigerator.

You will notice on a motor oil label that the letters SAE always precede the grade of the oil. SAE stands for the Society of Automotive Engineers, which sets the standards for motor oil viscosities and hundreds of other automobile parts. SAE assigns a number (0, 5, 10, 30, 40) for a range of oil viscosities at a given temperature. The lower numbers are thinner, or have a lower viscosity. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. A motor oil designated SAE 30 (a single-grade motor oil) is therefore thinner than one labeled SAE 40.

Single-grade oils, however, are reserved for special uses, such as lawnmowers. Unless you're driving your lawnmower about town, choose a multigrade motor oil-one with two numbers.

Multigrade Motor Oils

Multigrade oils do something remarkable: While a single-grade motor oil is thicker in cold weather and thinner in hot weather, multigrade oils maintain their thinness at lower temperatures. This ensures that, in cold weather, the oil will flow well enough to cycle through your engine. As the temperature of the engine (or the weather) increases, special agents in the oil cause it to thicken. This allows the oil to maintain a strong protective film over your engine's parts.

Understanding an oil label isn't difficult. The first number of a multigrade motor oil is its viscosity in cold weather. The W after the first number stands for "winter." A 5W-30 motor oil, then, has an SAE rating of 5 at 0?C (32?F, or freezing). The second number is the viscosity of the oil in higher temperatures: 100?C (212?F). Whereas an SAE 5 motor oil would get dangerously soupy at 100?C, a 5W-30 motor oil only thins as much as an SAE 30 motor oil would.

What Is Motor Oil, Anyway?

Conventional motor oils are refined from crude oil. About 1% of the volume of a barrel of crude is turned into motor oil. An average bottle of motor oil is only about 80% oil, however. The other 20% is made up of oil additives. These additives include the special agents that make multigrade oil possible plus:

detergents that prevent sludge buildup;

rust inhibitors that counteract the water vapors and acids that build up with normal engine use;

antifoaming agents to collapse tiny air bubbles that can create wear on your engine;

pour-point depressants that allow the oil to flow better at lower temperatures; and

oxidation inhibitors that slow down the natural deterioration of motor oil over its lifetime in your car.

The types and proportions of additives in a given brand of oil may vary, and that's why some oils claim to make your engine cleaner (they contain more detergents) or claim to be better for high-mileage cars (they contain special lubricants and sealants).

Synthetic Motor Oil

There are several synthetic motor oils on the market now. I went to a local auto superstore and asked why someone would choose synthetic (or synthetic blend) oils over conventional oils. My confidential source (we'll call him Deep Stick) advised me that synthetic oils increase your gas mileage and, because they don't break down as quickly as conventional oils, they keep your engine cleaner and maintain their viscosity longer. Synthetic oils also don't contain particles found in natural oil that may produce sludge and damage your engine.

How to Choose Your Motor Oil

You've read your owner's manual. You know how to read a motor oil label. Now you're faced with umpteen brands of motor oil, all the bottles claim different things, and you're looking forward to a game of eeny-meeny-miny-mo.

Stop right there! There is one more thing you must take into account: temperature. Specifically, the range of temperatures you expect your car to encounter.

If you live in an area where winter temperatures routinely dip below freezing, you'll want a motor oil with a lower viscosity at those temperatures. 5W-30 fits most cold environments, but a 0W-30 synthetic oil is available for truly extreme conditions.

If you rarely (or never) encounter freezing temperatures, you may wish to choose a 10W-30 oil. If you never face freezing temperatures, but you experience burning hot summers, a 10W-40 may be in order. My owner's manual allows me the flexibility to choose 10W-30 if ambient temperatures do not fall below 0?F.

Brand Differences

Deep Stick, my source at the auto parts superstore, informs me that all brands of motor oil are pretty much the same. But by all means, read the labels. They can give clues as to the particular additive mix in a certain brand of oil, and you may find one that seems more appropriate to your car and driving conditions.

Motor Oil Dos & Don'ts

Do ask for a paper cone or funnel when you buy a quart of oil. I have discovered it's a lot easier to pour the oil this way. Otherwise, you may end up lubricating the OUTSIDE of your engine, which is pretty gross, and once the engine gets hot, the oil will burn and stink.

Do get your oil changed every 3,000 miles, even if the oil label or your owner's manual specifies a longer interval. If you drive stop-and-go, in cold weather, or make frequent short trips (as most of us do), you will need your oil changed every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Do look on the label for the letters SAE before the viscosity indicators, and also look for what is called the API donut on the back label. This circle-in-a-circle label tells you whether the motor oil meets the standards set by your car manufacturer. It also tells you whether your oil is energy conserving. (See illustration.)

Don't mix grades of oil. Mixing a quart of 5W-30 with a quart of 10W-40 will not give you 7.5W-35. Oil manufacturers caution that mixing grades of oil will unbalance the additives that control viscosity at various temperatures.

Don't overfill your crankcase. This may cause foaming in your oil.

Motor Oil Glossary

4-cycle engine: most passenger cars are 4-cycle engines. Don't buy an oil for 2-cycle engines.

conventional: motor oil refined from crude oil.

crankcase: The metal casing with the hole in the top where you put the oil.

dipstick: a metal rod that shows the level of oil in your engine.

grade: the viscosity of your oil. Oils labeled with two grades (5W-30) are multigrade.

synthetic blend: part conventional, part synthetic motor oil.

synthetic: motor oil that has undergone a special chemical process.

viscosity: the thickness of the oil, or a measure of how well it flows at a given temperature.

No Boys Allowed. A look at girls' car clubs--and why you should start one.

2008-01-29T15:24:00.000-08:00

Men’s car clubs have been around since speed demons first began souping up their wheels in the 1940s. One part boy gang, one part garage crew, car clubs provide an extended support system for like-minded car enthusiasts who gather to work on their cars, hang out, and cruise. In other words, they’re not so different from your grandmother’s knitting club--only louder, dirtier, and faster.

Some of the clubs, like the Poor Boys (who’ve been around in various incarnations since the 1940s) have members all over the country, but a car club doesn’t have to be big to get the job done.

No Boys Allowed

Traditionally, car clubs are a guy thing--probably because guys have traditionally been more involved in do-it-yourself auto work than women. But these days, more than one third of all women car owners are do-it-yourselfers, and the number of women’s car and motorcycle clubs is on the rise.

San Francisco is home to the Devil Dolls, a take-no-prisoners gang of biker beauties who strike fear in the hearts of men when they cruise the streets on their American-made iron. The Devil Dolls have capitalized on their hellacious bad-girl appeal with a club pinup calendar and merchandise sold on their website. In fact, they’ve even garnered the respect of the Hell’s Angels, who officially endorse them. You think the mechanic calls them "baby"?

On the sweeter side falls the Vespa scooter club, the Screaming Mimis, a national gang of mod enthusiasts for the zippy, Italian-made vintage bikes.

Women’s hot-rod clubs include the Cherry Bombs, based in San Francisco. A little farther south, San Luis Obispo is the stomping ground of the Lady Lux, a three-member crew of very dedicated hot-rod ladies.

We Rely on Ourselves

"We’re all into cars because we like them, not because our boyfriends are," says Shelley Barnes, a member of the Lady Lux and proud owner of a 1941 Dodge Luxury Liner coupe. "For the most part, we try to work on our cars whenever possible. All of us are pretty independent and for that reason we like to be able to rely on ourselves to fix shit, instead of waiting for a guy to come help us."

Co-founder Christine Rogers, who has done all her own work on her award-winning 1954 chopped five-window Chevy truck, agrees. "Our club wasn’t just formed because we were girls; we were already friends. But we’re keeping it an all-girl club ? it’s hard to find girls who are really into cars, and not just because their boyfriends or husbands are into cars."

Rogers’s next project is to build herself a Model A coupe to add to the Lux fleet, which currently includes Jenny Foster’s 1954 two-door Nash Statesman, 2 teardrop trailers (a ’53 Rainbow and a ’58 Shasta) dubbed the Lux Lounges, Shelley and Christine’s vintage scooters, and 4 vintage bicycles.

Membership Has Its Benefits

Even if you don’t consider yourself much of a greaser, there’s a lot to be said for the kind of support network a car club can provide. Need a jump-start or a ride to the auto-parts store? Looking for a little solidarity when you take your car to the mechanic? Your car-club sisters are ready and waiting for the call. And if you’re tackling a new do-it-yourself repair, it’s invaluable to have a fellow member who’s been through it all before.

The camaraderie doesn’t end in the garage, though. Car clubs throw parties, print up T-shirts, and take trips together. Picture yourself as part of a rowdy gang of greaser girls on a car-club pub-crawl or a Saturday-night cruise in your matching Pink Ladies-style jackets. The appeal of a girl gang is stronger than you think. Take it from Shelley Barnes of the Lady Lux. "What’s really important is that we have fun," she says. "And boy, do we. Just ask around!"

Links

http://www.devildolls.com/
Check out this site for member photos, merchandise, and other info about a bunch of very scary babes.

http://www.greasergrrls.com/

This site is practically an online car club for chicks into cars, with plenty of information, photos, and cool articles.

Thelma, Louise, & Friends. Your guide to Hollywood's best (and worst) women's road movies.

2008-01-29T15:21:00.000-08:00

You said you and me was gonna get out of town and for once just really let our hair down. Well darlin, look out, cause my hair is coming down!

--Thelma in Thelma & Louise

Don’t tell my mother, but a year ago, hitchhiking through Glacier National Park in Montana, I got a ride from two women in a pick-up truck who introduced themselves only as Thelma and Louise.

"We’re from Atlanta," Thelma said, polishing off one of the seven Diet Cokes I saw her drink in the two hours we spent together, "but we’re heading west to get away from her boyfriend"--she nodded toward Louise--"and we’re not looking back!"

It made me happy to think these women had found some inspiration on the silver screen. For years, road movies have been all about male bonding. Think Easy Rider, Cannonball Run, Deathrace 2000, Smokey and the Bandit. It was until Thelma & Louise took America by storm in 1991 that women began to claim their rightful place in the genre.

A Quick History

A road movie is one in which the main characters are on the run, usually in a car, and the journey--not the destination--is what matters.

According to Halliwell’s Filmgoers Companion, the modern road movie actually got its inspiration from a novel, Jack Kerouc’s On the Road: "The form, in which cars often seem to be the main characters and the emphasis is on action, had an immediate appeal to the young of America and, to an extent, replaced the western as popular entertainment."

Road movies have given birth to several sub-genres, including car-race movies, the biker films of the 1960s, and young outlaw movies, such as Badlands, Natural Born Killers, and Love and a .45.

A Feminist Twist

The female road movies of the past decade have breathed new life into the genre by adding a feminist twist. Marginalized by a male-dominated society, women take to the road; their wanderlust is both an escape and a search. In most of these films, women feel trapped by their environments ? abusive relationships, disease, loss, and the gender roles that define their lives.

The outside journey parallels the inner journey many of these women travel, and it evolves through deepening connections and friendships with other women. The goal, is some form or another, is usually freedom.

For some--such as Thelma and Louise--this freedom comes only in the ultimate escape from society: death. For others, such as Jane and Robin in Boys on the Side, freedom comes from the strength of their friendships.

Here’s a quick primer on 3 female road movies you shouldn’t miss (and one you can skip).

Thelma & Louise (1991)

Thelma (Geena Davis) is a neglected housewife with an abusive husband in small-town Arkansas. Her best friend, Louise (Susan Sarandon) waits tables at a local burger joint. In an effort to break out of their doldrums, they jump in the car and hit the road. Their weekend trip, however, turns into a flight when Louise kills a man who threatens to rape Thelma. The women decide to go to Mexico, but the police are hot on their trail.

Along the road, Thelma and Louise come up against some tough male characters. Harvey Kietel is the cop who wants them in custody, but he’s also the only man who seems to understand what they're all about. Brad Pitt (in one of his earliest roles) is a charming bank robber who teaches Thelma a thing or two about love--and trust.

At the film’s climax, the women find themselves backed against a cliff by the cops. And faced with a life or death situation, they choose life--even though, for them, it means death.

Boys on the Side (1995)

When Jane (Whoopi Goldberg) finds herself out of work in New York City, she decides to try her luck in the Los Angeles nightclub scene. Robin (Mary-Louise Parker) responds to Jane’s ad for a traveling companion. As the unlikely pair heads west, they stop in Pittsburgh, where they rescue Holly (Drew Barrymore) from her drug-dealing, abusive boyfriend.

From Pittsburgh, the 3 women point their Dodge Caravan toward California, but they never quite get there. Robin is HIV-positive, becoming sicker every day. Jane is a lesbian whose singing career is down the tubes. Holly has just killed her boyfriend in an act of self-defense. Each woman is searching for a better life, and together they find refuge in their shared friendships.

Leaving Normal (1992)

Leaving Normal opens on a Greyhound bus, where Marianne Johnson (Meg Tilly) confides to a series of fellow passengers that she’s sure her life is about to take a turn for the better, even though she’s marrying a man she hardly knows. About two minutes later, she’s back out on the road, illusions shattered. Marianne bumps into her friend, a cynical cocktail waitress (Christine Lahti), who--after taking advantage of just about everybody who’s ever befriended her--is also ready for a change. So the two women head for Alaska, building a relationship along the way that will stand the test of time.

Normal, Wyoming, may be a fictitious town, but the oppressive nature of life in Normal feels all too familiar and true. From the director of Glory, Edward Zwick, this film is for everyone who loved Thelma & Louise but wished they didn’t die in the end.

Freeway (1996)

Not every road movie trumpets feminist liberation. Quite a few, such as Freeway, continue to patronize and objectify their characters. This flick has all the elements of a perfect exploitation film: teenage female juvenile delinquent, prostitution, drug use, sexual abuse, serial rapist/killer, gunplay, courtroom drama, prison riot, lesbian sex.

After her mom and step-dad are arrested, 15-year-old Vanessa Lutz (Reese Witherspoon) decides that instead of enduring another foster home, she’ll go in search of the grandmother she's never met, and they will live happily ever after. (Can anyone say Little Red Riding Hood?) But when Vanessa's car breaks down, she's picked up by Bob Wolverton (Kiefer Sutherland), a freeway rapist who’s all over the news. She shoots him several times and flees.

By some miracle, Wolverton survives, and the police charge Vanessa with attempted homicide. The papers make her out to be evil, while they portray Wolverton as a hero. Faced with an indifferent law enforcement system, Vanessa becomes a vigilante enforcer of her own brand of justice.

Motorcycles: Strong Enough for a Woman; Made for a Man

2008-01-29T15:20:00.000-08:00

I'd always expected my mother to take up a pastime when her children jumped the nest--golfing perhaps, or knitting. (After all, my grandmother crocheted for years.) But I was caught by surprise when I learned that my mother had come home one day with a Honda Shadow 650, a sleek black hog with a bumper sticker that read A Woman's Place Is on the Road. From the backseat of our Dodge caravan, I'd grown up observing my mother as she diligently followed every traffic rule. The thought of her zooming down the highway on a two-wheeled projectile was a bit overwhelming.

My reaction, I'll admit, was based largely on stereotypes. Motorcycles were for men, not women, right? Not that I really thought women couldn't ride motorcycles, but I'd grown up with movies and TV shows and music that equated motorcycles with masculinity. You know the story: Powerful hero rescues weak girlfriend, inviting her to jump on the back of his Harley and ride off into the sunset.

Despite my 1970s flower-child upbringing, my two enduring motorcycle memories are surprisingly gendered. The family for whom I babysat--the Smiths--kept two Harley-Davidson gems in their garage. Mr. Smith took his bike out every Saturday afternoon, but the second bike just sat there. Once I asked Mrs. Smith whose bike it was. "Mine," she said. "I used to ride, but with the baby, it's just too dangerous." (I often wondered why it was okay for Mr. Smith to risk his life, but not okay for Mrs. Smith.)

I also remember a pack of neighborhood toughs who used to ride their bicycles up and down our cul-de-sac in the summertime. We would watch them from Kristy Lighter's backyard, where the little girls played school while Kristy's mom kept a close watch. "Just wait until those boys are old enough to drive motorcycles," Mrs. Lighter used to say. "They'll be covered in leather and sporting tattoos--a real bunch of thugs."

My mother is no thug, though she does have a tattoo--a dainty sun on her ankle--and she's no stranger to leather. "A woman has not truly lived," she says, "until she straps on a pair of her own leather chaps."

I'd attributed the motorcycle to a mid-life crisis, but my mother pooh-poohed the notion. It was, she told me, a practical decision. Five days a week, fifty weeks each year, her job requires that she travel into the city. She estimates that now, with the motorcycle, she saves 30 minutes each way by weaving through gridlocked traffic--not to mention big bucks in parking on the crowded city streets. "That's fifty hours I was losing every year--more than two full days--because I considered motorcycling to be something girls didn't do."

As it turns out, this notion that girls "don't do" motorcycles is wrong--theoretically and factually. These days women are taking the road in record numbers. According to the Motorcycle Industry Council's Statistical Annual, of the 5.7 million motorcycle owners in the United States, 357,000 are women. Though this figure represents only 6% of all motorcycle owners, the number of female bikers has doubled in the last 10 years. That's a lot of biker chycks! And most of them are surprisingly similar to my mother--the average female biker is in her early fifties, with an income of almost $60,000.

Practicality, of course, isn't the bike's only benefit. With the extra two days that she saves each year in commuting, my mother hits the road with her biking buddies, a bunch of women in Western Massachusetts who take weekend tours together. They've formed an enviable community with a decidedly feminist tone.

"They teach me how to ride safe, how to ride alone, how to break down my own bike and fix it, how to anticipate a turn, how to ride a storm out," my mother tells me. "There are women out there who are down on themselves after reading how they should fit into a dress size smaller than their ring size, but I feel good about myself -- with the help of sister riders and Shadow."

Along the way, my mother has learned a lot about her bike. She knows how to measure a bike's fit, making sure that both feet rest flat on the ground in standing position. She knows how to adjust handlebars and check the position of the hand and foot controls. She knows that the shifter and brake pedal should rest evenly with the boot soles when the feet are on the pegs.

Of course, my father refers to the Shadow as the Donor Cycle, and he's not wrong to be concerned. Motorcycling can be a dangerous pastime. In 1998 alone, there were 50,000 motorcycle crashes and roughly 2,200 fatalities.

But Mom takes safety seriously. Like most legal motorcycle drivers, she is a graduate of the rider education program offered by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, a nonprofit organization that has offered training since 1973. As a result of continued emphasis on safety, motorcycle injury crashes have declined 41% since 1989, and annual motorcycle fatalities have dropped 27% over the last 10 years.

In the 7 years that my mom has ridden, she's never had a major accident. According to her, safety is about control and fear--if you lose either one, you're at risk for an injury. "The fear is important because it makes you remember to maintain control at all times."

Here in the Bay Area, traffic is in a crisis state, and as my good old Honda Civic nears the end of its life, I've thought about getting a motorcycle for my commute as well. When I mentioned this to my mom, she suggested I wait a year or two. Evidently she believes that fear is something acquired with age. Still, as she hangs up the phone, she gives me her usual parting advice: "Keep the rubber side down," she says, "and the shiny side up."

To Minivan or not to Minivan?

2008-01-29T15:17:00.000-08:00

I'm going to tell you a dirty little secret. I'm willing to risk the embarrassment. My hope that you might read my confession and cry out "Yes! Me too!", that together we might find solidarity and consolation as we reveal our True Selves.

My secret, in case you haven't guessed, is that I yearn for a minivan.

I long for the convenience and luxury of the Chrysler Town and Country's all-wheel drive and 3.5-liter, V6 engine generating 230 horsepower. I covet the Honda Odyssey's rear-bench seat that tucks neatly into a compartment in the floor, conjuring instant cargo space like a wizard. I want room for seven passengers, three-zone automatic temperature control systems, a cup holder for everyone! To me, the minivan is a mobile comfort unit, capable of anticipating and satiating my every need and desire.

Except, of course, my desire to feel young. Spunky, sexy, spirited. Single.

Since its debut in 1983, I've always thought of the minivan as an emblem of M-words: Ma'am. Mommy. Matronly. Buying a minivan was a shameless admission that you'd reached the Middle of your life. It was a pass that got you into the pool on a weekday, the YMCA recreation fields after dinner, possibly a Lyle Lovett concert on the weekend--but it sure as hell didn't get you in to see the Dave Matthews Band.

Carmakers are savvy, though. They understood my inner turmoil. And so they've started trotting out minivans masquerading as cool cars. Case in point: Chrysler's PT Cruiser. With a design that is simultaneously futuristic and retro (anyone remember those ZZ Top videos?), the PT Cruiser is an affordable temptation at only $15,450 (base price). But look a little closer at that hipster-mobile and you'll find platform shoes with sneaker soles. Inside, the Cruiser has a flat floor. Lift up the back hatch and there's cargo space, just like a you-know-what.

For years now, automakers have been offering another vehicle that provides safe transition from life in the fast lane to life in a minivan. It's called the SUV. They must be fashionable, because everybody and her sister drives one, right? But if you're hearing the Call of the Minivan, the SUV is little more than a lie you tell yourself, and the automakers know it. New models are stealing openly from minivans. Take the Pontiac Aztek--same platform as the Montana minivan: flat floor, removable seats. Who's kidding who?

Still, most minivan manufacturers don't feel the need for major cosmetic surgery (despite the face that all minivans still look much as they always have--an engine plopped in front of a rectangular box). Why fix it if it ain't broke? Last year, minivan sales peaked at 9% of total vehicles sold, and sales are expected to continue surging.

However, minivan manufactures are making some interior changes these days, thanks largely to the changing needs and tastes of the Baby Boomers (a.k.a. The King of Demographic Groups). As the Baby Boomers' children grow up, Baby Boomers have come to want more than just room to cart their kids. They want bells. They want whistles.

Manufacturers like Oldsmobile and Chevrolet have responded by outfitting minivans with the trappings of luxury cars and motor-homes. Consider the onslaught of roadster entertainment systems. The Chevrolet Venture (Warner Bros. Edition) includes a stereo and TV console with tri-mode audio, which allows three people to listen to three different things on headphones from a CD player and a DVD with remote control. (Of course, video games are an option, too.) DaimlerChrysler offers wireless headphones for its entertainment system, and Nissan can set you up with a nifty little liquid crystal screen and DVD on your center console.

I suppose it's gross and absurd that anyone would need to take the TV with them to the grocery store. Now that I'm getting older, though, I can sort of see the appeal of an on-board, high- tech entertainment system (to be used only on long trips, of course). Maybe if they come up with one for the PT Cruiser, I'd feel comfortable hauling everyone to a ZZ Top concert one day.

Jeep Nation

2008-01-29T15:15:00.001-08:00

Here's how it works: Let's say you're driving down an open stretch of highway in your chili-pepper red Jeep Wrangler (never just "red," please--it's chili-pepper red). You're perched above other cars on the road; the gas tank is full; the sky is clear. In short, life is good.

Then, on the horizon, you spot another Wrangler approaching. This one is blue (gunmetal blue, to those of us in the know). As the other Jeep draws close, you can make out the driver--a good-looking guy sporting a yellow bandanna. Your hand rises in an almost imperceptible wave from atop the steering wheel. Mr. Bandanna knows the drill. With a slight nod, he lifts three fingers in return.

To the outside observer, this exchange may look like random highway flirtation, but Jeep drivers will recognize it as the Jeep Wave--a customary acknowledgement of the kinship and simpatico shared among Jeep owners. You might say there's a Cult of the Jeep--a group that's every bit as clubby as a sorority or fraternity. Only there is no initiation ceremony, no dues, and no membership card. All you need is a love of Jeeps (and, ideally, a Jeep of your own).

I first fell in love with Jeeps a few years ago, during a weekend trip to Chicago. I cruised into town in my sensible 1993 Chevy Cavalier to pay a visit to my college pal Leslie. Since I'd last seen her, Leslie had become a true urban warrior, navigating a battered Jeep through her downtown neighborhood with a soldier's dogged confidence.

I'd never before known anyone with a Jeep. Immediately I was smitten by those distinctive round headlights, the rumbling five-speed transmission, the worn shocks that almost bounced me out of my seat every time we went over a pothole. When Leslie let me behind the wheel, it was love at first gear. By the end of that weekend, when I turned my own car toward home, the Cavalier's days were numbered.

I bought my first Jeep last spring. Like a lot of Jeep owners, I suppose I was attracted to the rugged, four-wheel-drive lifestyle, even if at heart I'm more Martha Stewart Living than Outside. In fact, Chrysler estimates that only 12-15% of Jeep owners actually use their vehicles to go off-road. Me? I've been off-road only once--onto the sidewalk, that is, during a particularly treacherous parallel-parking attempt. But for me, the allure of a Jeep is knowing that I could head off the beaten track if I chose to do so. From 9 to 5, I'm a mild-mannered writer and editor, but after hours, in my chili-pepper red Jeep, I'm tough, independent, wild.

Of course, other 4-wheel-drive vehicles offer the same appeal. So what makes Jeep owners so loyal and enthusiastic? Maybe it's the sense of history. Jeeps were first developed in 1940 by the U.S. Army to assist in the overseas war effort. Ever since, they've enjoyed almost mythical stature as symbols of rugged American durability. John Wayne didn't drive a Ford Explorer in all those World War II movies--he drove a Jeep. And so did Radar O'Reilly on M.A.S.H.--proof that even the most mild-mannered among us needs to sling a little mud now and then.

The special appeal of Jeeps is not lost on Chrysler, which actively fosters a sense of camaraderie among Jeep owners. Every year, the company holds an event known as Camp Jeep, an off-road training weekend for new Jeep owners and seasoned enthusiasts alike. This year's event, held August 10-12 in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, drew hundreds of Jeep enthusiasts. Jeep also organizes dozens of regional Jeep Jamborees, off-road events for more advanced drivers. Such promotions appear to be paying off, as Chrysler sells about 80,000 Jeeps each year.

In addition to attending such events, devoted Jeep owners maintain Jeep-themed websites, participate in Jeep list-serves, and spend big bucks to soup up their vehicles with assorted of add-ons and accessories. And, of course, there's the Jeep Wave. Try finding that kind of esprit de corps among Geo Metro owners.

Your Guide to Buying Cars on the Internet: Who knew it was so easy?

2008-01-29T15:09:00.000-08:00

Does the thought of buying a car take the power out of your steering? Even real-estate agents take me more seriously than car dealers. Through the ages, I've been told time and again by patronizing salesmen that I should return with my father or husband when I was ready to buy. Being the sassy, bad girl that I am, I like to tell the salesmen that I'm an orphan, or that my husband drove off a cliff. These salesmen need to get a clue and understand that I'm not there to enjoy the scenery; I have great credit and financing and am ready to put the pedal to the metal.

If you're tired of haggling with sleazy car dealers, you might consider buying your next vehicle on the Internet. These days, online car sales are booming. CarsDirect.com has grown more than 300% in the past year, and in the first three months of this year, sold 6,000 cars. Autobytel, another leading online car seller, boasted $13 million in car sales in 1999.

How It Works

Online car-sellers are different from brick-and-mortar dealers. Rather than maintaining an inventory of vehicles, these sites essentially act as middlemen. Through arrangements with car dealers, lease companies, rental companies, and banks, these sites present information on available cars or search for the specific car you want.

Not all online car sellers are created equally, so we've done some homework and picked our favorites. These are the sites you should brake for:

CarsDirect.com

http://www.carsdirect.com/ offers a complete online car-buying experience, not unlike buying a vitamins at VitaminShoppe.com (except, of course, there's a bit more money involved). Point, click, compare models, arrange financing, and voila! CarsDirect sells new cars only and claims to be the only service that will give you an immediate price quote.

Many cars (I was considering a Saturn) can be delivered within a week if you don't require special options, but there are exceptions: the Chrysler PT Cruiser, for example, is sold out until the new model debuts. (Custom options are charged differently depending upon where they are installed.)

A toll-free phone number lets you talk to a knowledgeable advisor 24/7, or, if you're feeling spontaneous, you can go directly into live chat for immediate general assistance. As with any car-buying transaction, you can always change your mind up until signing the final papers. Payment options at CarsDirect allow you to lease, use their financing or your own, or pay cash. CarsDirect will locate a car within a 50-mile radius of your home; picking it up is your responsibility.

Our only complaint is that, with a 56K modem, this site moved like molasses.

iMotors.com

http://www.imotors.com/ is the best site we've seen if you're shopping for a pre-owned (used) car online. Choose between two routes: Express program or custom orders.

Express vehicles are those which are already listed for sale on the site. These cars come from lease companies, rental companies, or banks. Since iMotors already has these cars in their database (along with details on equipment, color, approximate mileage, etc.), they don't have to spend as much time procuring and refurbishing the vehicles as they do on custom orders. The savings are passed along to the buyer.

The hitch is, you must be able to act quickly (within a week) and be willing to accept alternate colors and options. If the car you want isn't available within 14 days from the time of financing, iMotors.com will put you in a rental until your new car arrives.

For custom orders, you get to choose exactly what you want–year, make, model, series, transmission, mileage, color preferences, and options. Once you place your order, iMotors will locate a car that meets your specs, fix it up, and then deliver it within 21-28 days (usually).

The pros of using iMotors.com:

· Vehicles are between 1 and 5 years young.

· You get a 7-day/700-mile no-questions-asked refund policy.

· A 3-month/3,000-mile warranty with a $50 deductible is honored at 9,000 NAPA Auto Care centers.

· Costco members receive a Costco gift certificate. (Costco is an affiliate.)

· You don't have to complete an online application revealing sensitive information such as your social security number or mother's maiden name. A customer-care specialist will call to obtain that information over the phone. And knowledgeable operators are standing by on the toll-free line 7 days a week (California).

Vehicles are judged on a 269-point certification process, and every car comes with an AutoBiography™. The site might accept your trade-in, too. (Use the Kelley Blue Book to determine the value of your trade-in). Final price doesn't include sales tax, licenses, documentation preparation fees, smog devices, and financial fees that vary from state to state.

To begin the custom-order process, you must deposit $250 and sign a Search & Locate Agreement. This deposit is credited toward your purchase or is refundable if you change your mind. When checkbook time rolls around, you can use their financial network of lenders, arrange your own financing, or pay cash. iMotors maintains delivery centers in 7 states where the buyer can pick up her car.

Autobytel.com

http://www.autobytel.com/

is a purchasing program rather than a shopping service. You don't get a price quote until you're ready to buy, so you have to do your homework ahead of time. Know what kind of car you want and what you're willing to pay. When in doubt, cruise the plethora of links, reviews, and research provided on the site.

Consumers can buy or lease new and pre-owned vehicles, participate in dealer-to-consumer or consumer-to-consumer auctions, apply for financing, obtain warranties, and get insurance quotes. (For what it's worth, my American Express insurance is much cheaper than the insurance quote I received on the site.)

The auction feature is not too happening, though I did notice a dealer's 1999 red Honda Civic, 4-door, manual transmission with 14,000 miles, selling for only $5,000. That sounds almost too good to be true.

Pre-owned vehicles must pass a 135-point certification process and you get a 3-month/3,000-mile limited warranty backed by the selling dealer. By providing leads to accredited dealers, Autobytel.com is not a brokerage and maintains no inventory.

Delivery is free "where allowed by law," but the site doesn't explain where free delivery isn't allowed and what it might cost. Autobytel has 5,000 dealers in their Accredited Network and will try to find a car within your region. You pick it up.

Oy Vay, eBay

I might visit eBay to buy a silk smoking jacket for my greyhound or hand-painted martini glasses for me, but a car? Honk. I guess I'm not living life in the fast lane, because there is plenty of traffic at http://www.ebaymotors.com/. (Don't tell Amazon.com or they might start selling cars, too.)

Before you purchase a car on eBay, it's highly recommended that you open an escrow account at http://www.escrow.com/. A trusted third party holds the entire transaction amount in a bank trust account, thus protecting both buyer and seller from any wrongdoing or misrepresentation. Also, you should run a lemon check at http://www.carfax.com/ by entering the VIN (vehicle identification number). A lemon-check report offers insight into the past life of a car, such as whether it has a documented odometer rollback, or whether it ever held a salvage title--evidence that is was once badly wrecked.

Links:

Kelley Blue Book - http://www.kbb.com/ - Determine the value of a car before you buy or sell. Take the survey if you're not sure how to rate your car.

J.D. Power & Associates is an authority on the automobile industry and market research. They provide safety reports, help with picking a vehicle, expert independent reviews, and much more - http://www.jdpower.com/

Hot Rod Girl: Owning a classic car is simpler than you think

2008-01-29T15:02:00.000-08:00

Believe it or not, your parents were once cooler than you are. Doubtful? Just check out the cars they drove: big-finned beauties with throaty V-6 engines, miles of chrome, and names like Fury, Valiant, Corvair.

Now look at your own car. If you're like most of us, you're driving a bland, aerodynamic bubble on wheels. Yes, it's modern and trustworthy, perfectly likable in a button-down sort of way, but maybe now and then you find yourself watching a James Dean movie and thinking, "I'd look pretty swell in one of those old cars." Maybe you're ready for something with a little shake, rattle, and roll.

But maybe you're also a bit wary. You aren't sure that you really want to trust your life (and your wallet) to a vehicle that's thirty or forty years old.

The good news is, owning a classic car is simpler than you'd think. In fact, vintage cars can be cheaper, safer, and easier to maintain than their contemporary counterparts. Not to mention way cooler.

What is a Classic Car?

"Classic car" is an imprecise term. To one hardcore enthusiast, "classic" may mean pre-1960; another might apply the term to her baby blue 1973 Cadillac. If you'd like to have antique-car plates, check with your state DMV to find out what restrictions apply. Basically, though, "classic" is in the eye of the beholder. Style-wise, you'll find plenty of unique and interesting models from the 1970s on back.

The Myths about Classic Cars

It seems reasonable to assume that old cars (they're old, right?) are prone to fall apart. Wrong. These babies were built to last. Older cars were manufactured with steel bodies--none of the fiberglass and plastic you find in newer cars. In a classic car, you're more likely to kill a telephone pole than yourself. The heavy steel body also allows for greater traction in bad weather and on soft ground.

You might also assume that a classic is hard to maintain and repair. In fact, older cars were designed so that the average Jane could do many of the repairs herself. Back in the good old days, there were fewer service stations and parts chains along our relatively new highway system, so auto makers designed cars that were friendly to the home mechanic. And without today's computer chips and other newfangled complications, older cars are much simpler machines, making for easier diagnosis and repair.

Shopping for a Classic Car

A pristine, show-quality classic will cost you a pretty penny, but if you're willing to buy a fixer-upper, you can get a bargain on a classic (and isn't restoring the car half the fun?). You'll find a wide range of models that can be had for $400 to $3,000. Set aside another $1,000 for repairs and improvements--anything from a new water pump to a new paint job to a flame kit for the exhaust system.

Chevrolets are particularly friendly to classic-car buyers, as Chevy has never stopped making aftermarket parts for its older models. Unlike today's cars, you'll find that many parts are interchangeable on vintage cars. For instance, many older GM cars take the same parts, as do Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge vehicles.

Once you see that pretty Bel Air or Coupe De Ville, don't let the chrome blind your checkbook. Most classic-car repairs are cheap and easy, but there are a few major problems you'll want to avoid.

Check to see if the engine is leaking oil. If so, the engine could seize up, and it will cost about $500 to replace.

The electrical system is key, too. Make sure all the lights are working and invest in a new bulb or two to help you with your troubleshooting. An electrical diagnostic test ($30-$50) is a good idea. To replace any of the major electrical system parts (the starter, alternator, or battery) will cost you less than $100 and the time it takes to remove two bolts--no big deal. But if the major parts check out okay and the car still has electrical problems (dim lights, battery dying for no reason) there may be trouble in the wiring, and that spells h-e-a-d-a-c-h-e.

Be sure to test all the little gadgets, too - lights, wipers, heat, doors, windows, and locks. If there are problems, you'll want to consider the repair costs before you buy the car.

Finally, inspect the body and frame carefully. Jack up the car and check the underside for rust and holes. Get in the car and push on the floor with your feet to see if it gives. A rusted-out frame means a costly welding job. (Those of you in warm, dry climates will have a much easier time finding classic cars with intact bodies and frames. Those of you in the Rust Belt may want to head south or west to do your shopping.)

A Special Note on 1950s Cars

Cars from the 1950s and earlier are among the most coveted classics, but they come with special needs. All 1950s cars have V6 engines and run on 6-volt generators instead of alternators. Ideally, you'll want to convert the car over to a 12-volt system. The conversion will cost you several hundred dollars, but in the long run, you'll have a much easier time maintaining and finding parts for a 12-volt system.

Also, you won't find power steering in a 1950s car. This isn't such a big deal. My 115-pound friend Mimi drove a 3,000-pound Plymouth Fury for years without power steering, and she did fine. However, if you're going to want power steering, get an estimate on the work before you buy the car.

You may also encounter some 1950s cars that still have ply-bias tires, a predecessor to radials. Some even have tubes instead of steel belts. Yeesh. You will probably want to upgrade to modern tires.

After You Buy a Classic

Before you start picking out new paint, give your car a good tune-up. Every classic car in the world still has an extant manual floating around somewhere. Find the manual for your car and buy it. You may get lucky at your local auto-parts superstore, where they'll have a selection of Chilton's manuals. If not, check the ads in a good hot-rod magazine.

A basic tune-up is pretty simple. Check all your fluids and change the oil. Also, replace the distributor cap and rotor, and change the spark plugs and wires. Your manual includes guidelines on how to gap the spark plugs.

And be sure to have a professional technician give the brakes a thorough inspection. (Remember, you just bought yourself a big old hunk of car--tip-top brakes are a must.)

The Fabulous Possibilities

A classic car is like an apartment. You can do it up like crazy to reflect your personality and make riding in it a joy instead of a necessity to get from point A to B. Go nuts with leopard upholstery, a metal-flake wheel, or moon-eyes gauges. Check out the classified ads in a good custom or hot-rod magazine and decorate to your heart's content...and don't forget the fuzzy dice.

Links

http://www.classiccar.com/An online community for classic-car enthusiasts with chats and forums; feature articles on maintenance, restoration, and customizing; and good links to consumer and auction sites for classics.

http://www.hrdeluxe.com/The online version of the magazine Hot Rod Deluxe, a car mag for the hip greaser set. Great links and pictures of car rallies and events.

Finding an Honest Repair Shop

2008-01-29T14:59:00.000-08:00

Is "honest auto repair shop" an oxymoron? A lot of folks seem think so. Choosing a mechanic is a task most consumers approach with all the enthusiasm of a root canal, sans Novocain. But while there are many bad apples in the auto-repair barrel, there are plenty of good ones, too, shops that want your business and will do everything in their power to keep it. Finding one of these good repair shops doesn't have to be a crap shoot. All you need is a little common sense, some homework, and your own good instincts.

Get word-of-mouth recommendations

Start by asking your family, friends, and coworkers where they have their cars serviced. Does the shop usually get the job done right the first time? Do they always provide a written estimate (and do they stick to it)? If additional work is needed, does the shop call and explain the problem in layperson's language?

Your local auto-parts store may be another good source for recommendations. The salespeople can often tell a good mechanic from a bad one by the mechanic's shopping habits. If a mechanic walks in and buys all the ignition parts for a car at once, chances are he or she isn't doing an accurate diagnostic work-up on the vehicle. Instead, they're "throwing parts at the car." Eventually they may get it right, but guess who pays for all those extra parts? Another good person to ask is your auto insurance agent. And if you're a member of an automobile club, such as the American Automobile Association (AAA), they can provide you with a list of auto-repair facilities that meet their standards of honesty, competency, and consistency.

Check out the shop's community standing

Once you've received a good referral, call the Better Business Bureau in your area or the consumer complaint division of your attorney general's office. Ask if the repair shop has a large number of unresolved complaints. Keep in mind that any shop that's been in business for a while will have some complaints, but an excessive number should send up a red flag.

Don't procrastinate

You should get cozy with a good mechanic well before your transmission is refusing to shift, your muffler is hanging by a thread, or your engine is blowing nasty gobs of blue smoke. Try out a new shop for a small job first, such as an oil change or tire rotation. While you're there, look around the garage. Is it orderly and clean? Don't expect to be able to eat off the floor (although I've been in some shops where you could!), but the garage should not look like Beavis and Butthead live there.

Ask the owner how long they've been in business at that location. A dishonest shop will often move from one location to another so its lousy reputation doesn't have a chance to catch up. Ask if they take credit cards, and be suspicious if they don't. Credit cards are a good defense if you're not happy with the work, because you can file a complaint with your credit card company.

Ask to see the shop's computerized diagnostic equipment. A garage doesn't have to look like the back end of the Hubble Telescope, but the mechanics should be wielding more than large hammers and rusty screwdrivers. If you're driving a reasonably new car, it may have forty or more computers on board. The mechanics must have modern, computerized engine-analysis equipment and up-to-date manuals if they're going to get the job done efficiently.

Good mechanics should also be willing to show you how the equipment works, and to answer any questions you have. Evaluate their responses carefully. Do the mechanics speak "car talk," or do they speak in layperson's language that you can easily understand? If the mechanics aren't patient, polite, and respectful, give them a look at your taillights, not your wallet.

Check the shop's credentials

A mechanic can have the best equipment in the world, but if he did his first oil change only an hour ago, he's probably not the person you want working on your car. There is no substitute for good training and experience. In the U.S., oversight of mechanics' competency and honesty is handled at the state level--if at all. A few states, such as Michigan, Hawaii, and parts of Florida, actually certify and license mechanics. Elsewhere, certification is done on a voluntary basis.

The National Institute for Auto Service Excellence is the organization that certifies mechanics who apply through a series of written tests in eight categories: engines, transmissions, drive trains, brakes, suspension & steering, electrical, heating & air conditioning, and engine performance. In order to get ASE certification, a mechanic must have worked hands-on in the industry for at least two years. Certification is no guarantee of competence or honesty, of course, but it is an indication of professionalism--and that's better than nothing at all.

You can identify shops that employ certified mechanics by the blue and white ASE signs or uniform badges. Keep in mind, though, that it is the mechanic, not the shop, who is certified. A shop may display the ASE sign, but that doesn't necessarily mean that all of the mechanics who work there are certified. Always ask about training credentials and be sure that a certified mechanic works on your vehicle.

As a rule, each automaker sponsors its own training programs for its dealership technicians. Ideally, you'll want to find a Volvo-certified mechanic for your Volvo, a Toyota-certified mechanic for your Toyota, and so forth. The easiest way to find a mechanic with this kind of specialized training is to head for a dealership, but you can also find these mechanics at independent repair shops. Check the display ads in your Yellow Pages for garages that specialize in the type of car you own.

A good repair shop must also be able to access Technical Service Bulletins. TSBs are automaker-issued remedies for problems that are particularly difficult to diagnose. Thousands of these bulletins are issued annually. Without them, your mechanic is more likely to spend too much time--and too much of your money--diagnosing and fixing mechanical problems particular to your car. Ask the mechanic if they have access to TSBs. (By the way, you can get these bulletins yourself by contacting the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. For about $25, they'll send you a complete list of available bulletins, and you can request the ones you need for ten cents a page.)

Choose a shop that guarantees its work

Many shops guarantee their parts for ninety days or longer. The guarantee should appear on the invoice. It's your best protection against jobs that aren't done right the first time. However, even with such guarantees, you usually have to pay labor charges after ninety days.

Don't rely on convenience alone

We'd all like to find a repair shop that's close to our home or business, but proximity should never be the only factor you consider when deciding on a repair shop. If the garage around the corner can fix your problem in a week, but the shop across town can do it in a day (and for half the price), which is more convenient?

Trust your gut

When you plunk down that $450, you should feel good about it (or at least as good as one can feel under the circumstances). You should be confident that you purchased only what your car needed, at a fair price. You should feel you were treated with respect, patience, and friendliness. If your gut feeling is no good, don't go back to that shop. And rest assured that somewhere out there, a competent, trustworthy mechanic is just waiting for your business.

How I Fought the Man and Won: The Day Jiffy Lube Blew Up My Car

2008-01-29T14:56:00.000-08:00

I needed my oil changed, desperately. Doug, my mechanic and the only person I've let touch my car for years, had a four-day waiting list. I felt like I was cheating on him, but the seduction of a cheap oil change in less than fifteen minutes was more than I could resist. I took my car to Jiffy Lube.

If I'd only known the hell I was in for, I'd have sped off in the other direction. For starters, the promise of an oil change in fifteen minutes turned out to be a big lie. I spent more than an hour drinking bad coffee and watching Sally in the waiting room.

After a mechanic finally worked on my car, he told me I needed to replace three parts. If he'd just said one, I'd probably have said okay. But three? Come on. They've gotta know that not all women are gullible when it comes to cars. I made him show me the parts. Finally, I agreed to a new air filter (I could see for myself how dirty it was) but nothing else. Mostly, I was just grateful to pay my bill and leave.

"Your car is on fire!"

I hadn't driven a mile when I stopped at a light and a woman came running toward my car, waving her arms frantically. I figured she was nuts, especially when she started beating on my window. But then I heard what she was screaming: Your car is on fire!

I pulled over and sure enough, flames were coming out from beneath my hood. The not-so-crazy woman was already on her cell phone calling the fire department. Within a few minutes, two fire trucks arrived and put out the flames. After a quick investigation, one of the firemen brought me a charred cloth.

"Here's your problem," he said. "Somebody left this oil-soaked rag on your engine."

I turned around and took that rag right back to Jiffy Lube, where I asked to speak with the manager. My request was more than reasonable: I wanted a refund and I wanted Jiffy Lube to pay for any damage to my car. But her response blew me away.

"That's not our rag," the manager barked. "Our rags are pink and that one is white. You must have left that one in there."

I tried to explain to her that chemicals from the fire extinguisher had probably discolored the rag. Besides, wouldn't her mechanic have noticed if there had been another rag on the engine? By now, I was throwing a fit loud enough for everyone in the waiting room to hear: Jiffy Lube had caught my car on fire and they were lucky they weren't paying hospital bills.

When she realized I wasn't going anywhere until I got what I wanted, she admitted that she didn't have the authority to refund my money. I would have to speak with a regional supervisor.

For the next three days, I called the supervisor pretty much every hour. At first, he took the manager's side, claiming it wasn't their rag. Then his boss cut the rag in half, revealing pink fibers in the center. They finally agreed to pay my mechanic to check out the car and fix any damage resulting from the fire.

"What about a refund?" I asked.

"You still are benefiting from the services we provided," he replied. "I'll just send you some coupons for your next oil change."

Like I'd ever go back there.

I told him that if I didn't get a refund, I was going to make his life ten times more miserable than I'd already made it. I had my money the next day.

Know your rights

According to Jocile Ehrlich, president of the Better Business Bureau of Cincinnati, if a mechanic gives you trouble, you should take the following actions:

1. First, speak with the manager of the shop. Be sure to document your conversation.

2. If you're unable to reach an agreement, and if the company is a franchise, direct your complaint to the owner of the franchise. A phone call might work, but a written complaint provides better documentation.

3. If you're still unable to come to terms, send a written complaint to your local Better Business Bureau. The Bureau will send a copy of your letter to the shop, encouraging them to settle the complaint.

4. Still haven't achieved a satisfactory result? Your next option is legal action. If you want to play hardball, you can file a complaint in small-claims court. (Most county courts can provide you with a handbook outlining this procedure.) If softball is more your style, you can try mediation or arbitration. Mediation brings both parties together with a facilitator who helps the two parties resolve the complaint. Arbitration makes a ruling that is legally binding. The Better Business Bureau offers help with both of these options.

I'll never stray again

After Doug had a good laugh at my Jiffy Lube story, he gave my car a thorough inspection. Nothing was wrong, he said, not even those other two parts that Jiffy Lube had tried to sell me. And then he did something unbelievable--he said I didn't owe him anything for the check-up.

"You don't know what I've gone through to be able to pay you," I explained. Then he said he'd take fifteen dollars. I wrote him a check for twenty-five.

The Ultimate Car Emergency Kit

2008-01-29T14:54:00.000-08:00

In 1990, author Tim O’Brien was a Pulitzer Prize finalist for The Things They Carried, a short-story collection about soldiers in Vietnam. As a soldier of the highway, the things you carry might not win you any prizes, but they may save your life, should you find yourself stranded or in an accident. Here’s a checklist of 19 things every smart driver should carry in her car.

The Things You (Should) Carry

1. Important documents, such as your driver’s license, auto-club card, and insurance papers. Yes, these are no-brainers, but if for some reason your brain has taken a vacation, now is the time to make sure you have all of these documents in your wallet or glove box.

2. A cell phone. It doesn’t cost much, and it could save your life if you’re stranded or involved in an accident. (Of course, if you get distracted while chatting on your cell phone in traffic, it could also cost you your life.)

3. Spare change. If your cell phone battery dies, you’ll want plenty of change for the pay phone.

4. A flashlight. Get one that re-charges by plugging into your car’s cigarette lighter.

5. Emergency flares. They only last about 15 minutes each, so carry at least a dozen. If your car is disabled, you’ll want to place a couple of flares about 100 feet behind your car to warn oncoming traffic.

6. A whistle, bright rags, and a small mirror. If you’re stranded, you could stand beside your car yelling and waving your arms, but a whistle and some bright rags (or signal mirror) are more effective and less exhausting.

7. Dry chemical fire extinguisher. Avoid liquid fire extinguishers, which can cause a fire to spread.

8. A tool for cleaning snow and ice from your windows. Get a scraper before you come out one morning and find your windshield covered in ice.

9. A blanket. Take it from Linus--nothing beats a warm blanket, especially if you’re stranded in cold weather.

10. Food and bottled water. If you’re stranded for hours, you’ll want to keep your strength up. Be sure to get food that stays fresh for long periods of time and is edible at both very high and very low temperatures. Trail mix is a good choice; egg salad isn’t.

11. Two cans of tire inflator. If you get a flat, you could stand around waiting for a tow truck, but why bother if you can fix it yourself?

12. Paper towels. Forget Velcro--paper towels are the miracle invention when it comes to car emergencies. You can clean up minor spills, wipe down your dipstick, or even use a roll of Bounty as a makeshift pillow.

13. Vital automotive fluids. Carry spare oil and, in case of a radiator or hose leak, spare water. You may want to carry spare gasoline too, but be careful, it’s explosive. Check your local auto-parts store to see if they carry non-explosive substitute fuel.

14. Jumper cables. Don’t rely on chance and the kindness of strangers--you should carry your own pair of jumper cables. (For instructions on using cables, consult our online auto handbook, Car Care 101.) Consider buying the new, safer cables that plug into the cigarette lighter of the car with the good battery.

15. Tools. In addition to a jack and tire-changing equipment, it’s helpful to carry two kinds of screwdrivers (slot and Phillips head), hammer, pliers, a knife, and a roll of duct tape, which is handy for temporarily patching leaky hoses.

16. Maps. Invest in a good atlas and maps for the cities in which you most often drive. In unfamiliar areas, you should also be keeping a map in your head, making note of street names, landmarks, etc. If you break down and have to call for help, the police or tow truck will get to you more quickly if you can provide them with details of your location.

17. A pen and paper. Who knows when you’ll need to jot down directions, take a license-plate number, or leave a note on the windshield of your disabled car? However, you should avoid carrying a pen (or keys) in your blouse; when your airbag deploys, it could jam these objects into your chest.

18. Matches or a lighter. Swallow your pride, ace Girl Scout. If you’re in an emergency and need a fire, you don’t want to waste time rubbing sticks together.

19. Floor mats. You thought they were there to keep your carpet clean, right? If you’re stuck in mud or snow, you can also put floor mats under your tires for better traction.

The Eco Driver.

2008-01-29T14:46:00.000-08:00

Like it or not, if you drive a car, you’re doing harm to the environment. It’s an ugly compromise that most of us have come to accept. Sure, we value clean air, but we need our cars to get to work, to school, to the grocery store. The good news is, there are steps you can take to reduce your vehicle’s impact on the environment.

Smog Nation

Every day in cities across the country, we inch to work on crowded freeways, our windows rolled up to protect us against exhaust fumes. Problem is, we’re not really protected. According to the March issue of Harper’s Magazine, levels of air-pollution inside a moving car on an L.A. freeway are often 10 times higher than the levels outside the car.

As if the assault on our lungs and bronchial passages wasn’t enough, says Dr. Reed Noss of the Society for Conservation Biology, humans aren’t even the species worst hit by this pollution. Vehicles and the roads they drive on cause everything from immediate death to genetic deterioration, fluctuations in habitat conditions, and habitat fragmentation in wildlife populations. (For more on how roads affect wildlife, go to http://www.eco-action.org/dt/roads.html.)

Improvements

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports that, overall, national air quality levels have shown improvement for major pollutants since the 1970 Clean Air Act was signed into law. Nevertheless, in 1999, 62 million Americans reportedly lived in areas that had unhealthy air from at least one of six major pollutants: carbon monoxide, lead, nitrogen, smog, particulate matter, and sulfur dioxide.

Consider these facts:

The biggest source of air pollution in a majority of the world’s cities is auto exhaust.
Lead contamination from gasoline and tires has been found up to 100 miles from the nearest metropolitan area.
Nine of the 10 largest multinational corporations in the world produce either automobiles or gasoline.

What Can We Do?

Slowly but surely, lawmakers are passing bills designed to reduce the impact of cars on the environment. Laws in California, for instance, now require that 10 percent of all cars sold by the year 2003 be zero-emission vehicles.

In response to laws such as these, America’s Big Three automakers–Ford, Chrysler, and General Motors–have formed the "Partnership for a New Generation of Vehicles" to encourage the development of alternative vehicle technology.

"This is customer-driven environmental responsibility," says Jac Nasser, Ford president and CEO. Now, instead of bragging about making the biggest and fastest vehicles on the road today, manufacturers are competing to make the cleanest.

Your Eco-Driver Checklist

Don’t wait for the politicians and automakers to solve the problem of air pollution. By following these tips, you can make your car a bit more environmentally friendly–even when you’re crawling along in rush-hour traffic. The three key words are reduce, recycle, and maintain.

Reduce

1. Reduce the time your engine runs

If you’re stuck in traffic for more than a minute, simply turn off the engine–you’ll save yourself some gas, and you’ll spare the lungs of the driver behind you. Also, if you live in a climate where temperatures never drop below freezing, it’s not necessary to warm up your engine for more than a couple minutes! Even in cold climates, today’s cars can operate effectively soon after start-up.

2. Plan your trips

For those of you who drive from one end of the mall to the other, remember:

Walking is a virtue.
Park where you can run several errands at once.
Try to avoid driving during stop-and-go rush-hour traffic.
Let your fingers do the driving–a phone call can confirm if an item you need is in stock, and catalogs and Internet sites offer car-free shopping.
Before driving an extra 10 miles to save $5 on a pair of shoes at a discount outlet, consider the hidden costs of fuel and wear and tear on your car--not to mention the environmental costs. Is it really worth it?

3. Reduce the load on your engine

Anything that improves your mileage reduces pollution. Piling objects inside or on top of your car increases drag and reduces efficiency. Turn off your air conditioner when possible, and open a window instead. If you’re driving a standard-shift car, stay in the highest gear reasonable for your speed. If you’re driving an automatic and you have overdrive, use it.

4. Reduce your speed

I know, I know. You’ve heard this one so often it’s annoying, but remember: Reducing your speed from 65 mph to 55 mph increases fuel economy by 15%. Every time you increase your speed, you’re burning fuel and money.

5. Consider owning one car per family

Does every member of your family really need a car? Having access to only one car is a built-in incentive for both children and adults to bike or walk. When you do need an extra car, the mountain of money you save on car payments, fuel, and insurance will easily cover an occasional cab or car rental.

Recycle

1. Recycle used parts

Worn-out parts and discarded fluids (including batteries, oil, antifreeze, and tires) can often be recycled. Ask your mechanic or call your local recycling center.

2. Buy recycled

Always buy refined motor oil, and when you need to replace something like a starter or alternator, ask for a re-manufactured part.

3. Recycle your car when it "dies"

Don’t leave a dead car in your backyard! Even if you like the Sanford & Son look, it’s an environmental waste. Consider sending your car to an auto recycler (a.k.a. junkyard) where usable parts can be resold and the remaining metal crushed and recycled. Or you can donate your car to a vocational school that may be able to put life back into it, and you’ll get a tax deduction to boot.

Maintain

1. Maintain your engine

Cars with poorly maintained engines and emissions systems are the road’s worst polluters. Make sure a skilled mechanic runs an emissions-system check on your car.

2. Preventative maintenance vs. scheduled maintenance

Many cars today are sold with 100,000-mile tune-up intervals, but don’t be fooled. Even these cars need regular check-ups to prevent breakdowns and maintain efficiency.

3. Check wheels and tires

Have your wheels aligned–this reduces rolling inefficiencies as well as tire wear–and keep your tires properly inflated. Low tire pressure wastes more than 2 million gallons of gasoline in the US every day.

4. Prevent A/C leaks

If you’re having an older air-conditioning system serviced, make sure your garage uses a "vampire," a device that safely captures CFC coolants. Their release into the atmosphere damages the earth’s protective ozone layer.

Links

How does your car or tire company rate ecologically? Find out at http://www.responsibleshopper.org/.

For information on air-quality trends in cities across the nation, see http://www.epa.gov/airtrends.

Should dogs wear seatbelts?

2008-01-29T14:42:00.000-08:00

The answer is, yes.

Recently I moved from Los Angeles to Tucson with my two greyhounds. The 80-pound male roosted in my Honda hatchback, which afforded him a great view of the landscape; the 60-pound female rode with my friend in a rental car, climbing between the front and back seats as she pleased. Both dogs seemed to enjoy the trip, and it was fun having them along to keep us company during the drive.

It didn’t occur to me until after the trip that I had put my pooches (and myself) at risk. What if I had slammed on the brakes? What if I’d been in an accident?

According to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/) and the Animal Protection Institute (http://www.api4animals.org/) there are no available statistics how many dogs are injured or killed each year in cars. Nevertheless, traveling pets face the same dangers we do, and they also pose a risk to passengers and other motorists. Author Stephen King was injured when a pick-up truck driver lost control while trying to corral his unrestrained Rottweiler.

Some U.S. lawmakers are beginning to catch on. The California Tether Law, for instance, requires all dogs in the back of pick-ups to be cross-tethered to the vehicle or protected by a secured container or cage to prevent them from being thrown, falling, or jumping from the vehicle.

But when it comes dogs and auto safety, the British are at the head of the pack. Drivers in England are urged to use seatbelt-like restraints on their pets or buy insurance to cover any damage or accidents caused by their passenger pets.

5 Reasons Why Your Dog Should Wear a Seatbelt

1. Distraction

Pets can provide much-needed distraction from the pressures of daily life. However, you don’t want your pet distracting you when you’re behind the wheel. The results could be disastrous--for you, your pet, and other motorists.

2. Impact

Pets without seatbelts are just like people without seatbelts: If you slam on the brakes or hit another car, they go flying. The last thing you need in an accident is a large dog hurtling at you from the backseat. It’s the last thing your dog needs, too.

3. Emergencies

A dog that has been in an accident is likely to be in shock, confused, and injured. She may attack rescue personnel without provocation. You can minimize this danger by properly restraining your dog.

4. Control

Even a well-trained dog can be distracted by a juicy squirrel or cat. If your dog is properly tethered, he can’t jump out the window or chase after another animal when you open your door.

5. Comfort

Imagine standing blindfolded in the back of a moving truck. Pretty unnerving, yes? That’s what the average car trip is like for your dog--a series of unexpected starts, stops, and turns. You can increase your dog’s security and comfort by providing restraints.

Restraining Dos and Don’ts

Do use restraints that offer mobility

Some restraints allow your dog only to remain in a sitting position. That might be fine for a quick trip to the post office, but over a longer haul, your dog should be able to sit, lie down, and perhaps stand.

Don’t put your dog in the front seat

The safest place for your dog is the middle of the back seat. Airbags are not designed for small children or dogs.

Do properly fit your dog with the correct size restraint

If the restraint is too small, it will chafe your dog and make her uncomfortable; if it’s too big, it won’t provide effective restraint. (Consult the links below to determine the proper size restraint for your dog. Most of the sites provide charts based on a dog’s chest measurement and weight.)

Don’t put your dog in a crate or cage

In an accident, a crate or cage will go flying through the air just like an unrestrained dog. Not good. And even if the crate itself is secured, your dog will be slammed against the interior walls with potentially lethal force.

Do ask questions about restraint products

Has the product been crash-tested? Safety-tested? Does the manufacturer offer testimonials? There are lots of companies that offer pet-restraint systems; find one that knows its product and stands behind it.

To Buy or Lease?

2008-01-29T14:34:00.000-08:00

It's no easy thing to buy a car, let alone be a woman buying a car. Dealers are notorious for not treating our questions with the same respect they accord a man's. The best advice we usually get? Swallow your pride and independence, and bring along your boyfriend, your dad, or your brother.

In reality, you might be better off without the extra testosterone. According to Jack Gillis, a contributing correspondent for NBC's The Today Show and author of The Car Book (HarperCollins), women generally make better car purchases than men because we think we don't know a lot about cars, so we do far more research before we buy. And, strangely enough, we're less likely than men to make an emotional decision on the showroom floor.

No big surprise that we're better car buyers, but what about leasing? You've seen the ads: No money down! $199 a month! Thanks to lower monthly payments, you can often afford to lease a better car than you could buy. Leasing also allows you to get a new car every two or three years, and you'll have fewer maintenance headaches since major repairs are usually covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Leasing is safer than ever, too, thanks to the Federal Consumer Leasing Act, which went into effect in January 1998. This legislation requires companies to detail the fine print in their leasing contracts before you sign on the dotted line.

But while leasing seems like a great deal on the surface, it might not be the best option for you. Here's the scoop. With leasing, your monthly $199 pays for the difference between the price of the car and its value at the end of the lease period. In other words, you pay only for the portion of the car that you use during a two- to three- year period. At the end of that time, you turn in the car to the lease company like a pair of rented roller-skates, and you're free and clear.

(To make a short story long: The depreciation (or "residual value") of a car depends upon the model, the lessor (i.e., the bank or independent lease company), the amount of miles you anticipate driving, and any special promotions (such as a manufacturer's rebate). In most cases, the lessor, not the dealer, sets the residual value. The lessor also sets the interest rate, called the "money factor" or the "rent charge" in lease talk. This figure is usually expressed in a weird fraction, like .0038, which you must them multiply by the number of months in your lease in order to get a recognizable figure that represents your interest rate. So, if you want to find the best deal, you should shop around among different lessors.)

On the other hand, when you buy a car, you take out a loan for its full value, which translates into a larger loan and higher monthly payments. But once you've paid off the loan, you own the car: you can trade it in, drive it until it drops, or sell it. (Keep in mind that buying a car is not an investment. The value of a car will never increase with time, unless you hang on to it for decades and it happens to become a classic.)

Before you head down to the dealership to check out the newest models, take a few minutes to weigh your options:

The pros of leasing

- Lower monthly payments

Because you're paying only for the depreciation of the car over the lease period – the portion of the car you actually use – monthly payments are 30%-60% lower than you'd pay if you bought the same car.

- A fancier car

Because you pay only for the portion of the vehicle that you actually use, you can generally afford to lease a nicer car than you can buy.

- Fewer maintenance headaches

A manufacturer's warranty usually expires after two or three years. If you buy your car instead of leasing it, you'll have to pick up the tab for major repairs after that period. (Obviously, you should never lease a car for a period longer than that covered by the manufacturer's warranty.)

- Little or no down payment

A well-negotiated lease will have little or no down payment, but dealers often try to get you to put money down anyway. Don't do it. Remember, you're not buying anything, so there's no reason to "get it out of the way" early on.

- No used-car hassles

At the end of the lease, you don't have to worry about selling or trading in your car because you don't own it.

- Lower taxes

In most states, you pay sales tax only on your monthly payments, not on the entire value of the car. And if you drive your car for business, it's easier to deduct driving expenses, because rather than keeping a log, you can lease the car in your business's name.

The cons of leasing

- No equity

As you pay off a purchase loan, you build equity in your car, and after your loan is paid off, you can sell the car, trade it, or drive that sucker for as long as it lasts. When you lease, you don't own anything--you're essentially renting the car.

- Leasing is more expensive in the long run

When you buy a car, you have the option of spreading the cost over a longer period of time, and one day--when that loan is finally paid off--you'll no longer be making monthly payments. With leasing, you're always making a monthly payment, and over the long haul, it adds up to higher costs. For example, if you buy a car, pay it off in four years, then drive it for another four years, the cost of the car spread over those eight years will be cheaper than if you leased three or four cars in that same period.

- Excess wear-and-tear charge

Lease companies can charge exorbitant fees for little nicks and dings when you turn the car in. If you decide to lease, you'll have to be careful to keep the car in tip-top shape.

- Mileage limits

Leases usually have a 15,000-mile limit. If you go over the limit, you'll have to pay 10 to 25 cents (!) for each extra mile at the time you return the car. If you anticipate exceeding the mileage limit, you can often buy extra miles up front at a much cheaper price.

- It's expensive to break a lease

If there's any chance that you'll change jobs, lose your steady income, or leave the state, leasing is not for you. Breaking a lease is really, really expensive. Basically the leasing company is going to want all the money you promised them in the first place--except they'll want it all at once. A lease is a contract, with legally binding terms, and leasing companies usually don't like for the vehicles they own to leave the state. If you anticipate moving soon, you'll need to make sure your lease contract allows you to leave the state without having to pay a fee.

Deciding whether to lease or buy is only the first step in choosing a car. Next comes research. It's what we independent women do best, and there are plenty of resources on the Internet to help you calculate monthly payments, compare prices, and avoid dealer scams.

The Ageless Mechanic

2008-01-29T14:33:00.000-08:00

My neighbor, Jacque Foreman, is graphic artist who enjoys working on cars in her spare time. These days, that’s not so unusual--more than one-third of all women car owners engage in some form of do-it-yourself car maintenance or repair. What is unusual is that Jacque is over 60 years old, and she’s been working on her own cars since the 1960s, an era when far fewer women ventured under the hood.

Jacque is the kind of gal who knows her way around a junkyard. Look in the trunk of her car and you’ll find spare parts, tape, a 2-gallon supply of water for radiator emergencies. Look in her purse and you’ll find tools. (Her most recent purchase, a tiny ratchet, has proven especially handy for the tight confines of her 1986 Toyota Tercel’s engine.) She is, according to her mother-in-law, the kind of woman who considers tools a fine birthday gift.

"You Drive It, You Fix It"

Jacque hasn’t always been a do-it-your-selfer, though. Once upon a time, she used to ask her boyfriend, Bruce, for help whenever something went wrong with her car. "He got tired of that," Jacque says, "so rather than just fixing my car, he started teaching me to fix it myself. His approach was, ‘you drive it, you fix it.’"

Was she annoyed by Bruce’s tough-love attitude? "No, not really," Foreman says. The only thing that bothered her was Bruce’s knack for diagnosing car problems so quickly. "The troublesome part wiggles at him and he finds the answer in minutes," she says. "With me, it just takes longer."

Jacque soon developed a curiosity for cars that has served her well. She recalls one night when Bruce had the engine of his Fiat 600 scattered in pieces on the living-room floor. (This was the early 1960s, shortly after they’d met, and they both drove Fiats.) As long as he was rebuilding the engine, Jacque insisted that he show her how it was done.

Bruce and Jacque have been married for more than 30 years now, and in that time, Jacque has become quite a mechanic in her own right. She still loves small cars, too, though these days, she’s partial to Toyotas, rather that Fiats and MGs.

Sometimes You Win, Sometimes You Lose

Car repair is a science of trial-and-error, and even good mechanics sometimes have bad days. Recently, Jacque found herself stranded on the side of the road.

"It never occurred to me," she says, "that after removing the thermostat, I wouldn't be able to get the radiator working. Tightening the gasket didn't help, and it wouldn't stop leaking--on me, and on the ground."

She ended up hiking to the nearest garage, which was very busy that day. "I politely asked the mechanic if he could tell me where the thermostat on my model was located, since it hadn't been on top as I'd suspected."

In the end, she still wasn’t able to get the car running. "To make matters worse, I was on my way to a Rotary Club meeting. That was one day I broke down and called a towing service."

Jacque, who pens the local Rotary's newsletter, later wrote a piece explaining why she didn't show up for that day's meeting. "I had expected to run in at the last minute telling them how I fixed it," she says. "It didn't turn out that way."

The Two Secrets to Auto Repair

It’s not often, however, that Jacque finds herself stranded. After 30 years of fixing her own cars, she’s learned the two secrets of auto repair--conducting regular maintenance and always being prepared.

These lessons were hammered home by an MG 1100 Jacque used to drive. When the car developed electrical problems, she and Bruce replaced all of the usual suspects--spark plugs, points, distributor cap. Still the problem persisted.

It wasn’t until they removed the distributor cap again and looked very closely that they discovered a tiny fraying on one of the ignition wires.

"Now I replace electrical wires every two years, whether they need it or not," Jacque says. "And I always keep the old wires with me in the back of the car, because sometimes the new parts you buy can be defective."

A Tale of Two Mechanics

2008-01-29T14:26:00.000-08:00

I may not know about all cars, but I know mycar. I know the low grumble it makes when the air conditioning has been on too long. I know the sulfur-like smell that comes from acclerating too quickly before my engine is warm. And I know when something is wrong with my car--even if I don't know what that something is.

Still, it can be hard convincing a mechanic that I have a problem, especially with my limited garage vocabulary: "Well, it growls for a while, and then there's a little ping."

That's what I said to my mechanic in Liberty, Missouri. Almost immediately, I felt a dislike for him--the way he raised his eyebrows, the sarcasm in his voice as he repeated "little ping" and grabbed my keys. Before he even got into my car, I could tell he thought I was dingy. Which is probably why he drove around the block only once before he determined the car was fine. "I don't hear nothing," he said.

I don't like feeling unsure of myself. As I drove away, I played with all of the buttons on my dashboard, trying to see if the noise was just the air-conditioning or a bad stereo connection. By the time I got home, I'd let that guy convince me that I was, in fact, hearing things.

Of course, the ping got louder over the next few days, so I took my car back to the shop, only to get a repeat performance of our prior meeting: "Nope," the mechanic said. "I don't hear nothing."

Eventually, the ping got so loud I could hardly hear the rumble. I knew I was going to regret it, but I took my car back to the mechanic once again. After another five-minute drive around the block, he had the nerve to tell me, "Look, there's no ping. There's no noise. There's nothing wrong with your car. Stop coming here."

That was a Wednesday.

On Sunday, my car broke down while I was taking a friend to the airport. I barely made it to a service station. I spent more than $400 on a problem that my new, really great mechanic said could have been diagnosed "by any idiot."

You better believe I never gave that first mechanic any more business, but I did stop by to show him my new engine parts and my expensive receipt. I was steamed and I let him know it. I made sure none of my friends went to him, either. Since that incident, I've come up with a set of guidelines for choosing my mechanics.

1. I must be taken seriously.

How could that mechanic not take me seriously when I was spending more than an hour each day in my car? Now, when I say words like "hiss" and "gurgle," the mechanic better say, "Where's this hiss coming from?" or "How loud is the gurgle?" If they laugh or joke about my description in any way, I have no problem walking out the door. And if I hear anyone back in the garage using words like "bitch" or "blonde," well, that's all the more reason to leave.

2. The shop should be independently owned, not part of a chain.

Okay, so this requirement has more to do with my politics than my ability to detect a woman-friendly mechanic. Nevertheless, it's no secret that independently owned businesses live and die by their reputations. If an independent shop owner wants to survive, he has to treat all his customers respectfully. Plus, I've found that mechanics at independent garages are sometimes so grateful that I didn't go to the Jiffy Lube down the street, they'll throw in little bonuses--like filling up my fluids for free.

3. The mechanic must be honest.

Above all, my mechanic must be honest and never try to take advantage of me. I look for the following traits when trying to determine whether I'm dealing with a trustworthy repair shop or a gang of sleaze-balls:

They ask my permission before fixing any problem.
When I go in for routine maintenance, they don't try to sell me any additional, unnecessary services.
If they do find additional problems with my car, they let me know how long I can expect to safely drive the car instead of urging me to get the problems fixed immediately.
Other women get their cars serviced by the same mechanic.

There are great mechanics out there. It's true--I've got one here in Cincinnati. He doesn't talk much and he's pretty greasy, but he knows my name. And most importantly, he knows that I know my car.

"Wash Me" Six Secrets for a Perfect Do-It-Yourself Car Wash

2008-01-29T14:19:00.000-08:00

Have you ever come out of the mall or the grocery store to discover that some clever kid has taken his finger to your car, leaving a message in the layer of grime. "Wash Me," it says. Or even worse: "Don’t Wash Me. I Belong to Pigpen."

That’s when you know it’s time to do something about those dusty windows, water-spotted chrome, and mud splatters. But before you zip over to the $1.50 automatic car wash at your local gas station, you should consider doing the job yourself.

Do-It-Yourself Is Best

According to Mike Hargrove, a professional detailer since 1974 at Mercedes Benz of Cincinnati, there’s a good reason your dad spent so many Saturdays in the driveway with a plastic bucket and sponge, soaping down the family sedan. It’s the safest and most effective way to wash your car (aside from a pricey professional detail job).

"Only you know how much pressure you’re putting on the car," Hargrove says, "and when you hand-wash, you can control that. Less pressure means less damage to the paint, and a better finish over the years."

Six Secrets for a Perfect Car Wash

1. Since pressure and friction are the enemies of your car’s finish, Hargrove says it’s crucial that you use a soft cloth, such as chamois or an old knit rag or T-shirt.

2. Pick your detergent with care. It’s fine to grab the liquid dishwashing detergent out of the kitchen for your Saturday afternoon hose-down, but be aware that the grease-cutting properties in that detergent will gradually strip off your car’s wax. Unless you’re planning to wax after you’ve washed, purchase a grit-free commercial car detergent, the milder the better.

3. When buffing out fine scratches, use a buffing compound with as little grit as possible. Heat, not abrasion, is what will restore the fine shine to a coat of paint, Hargrove says. The shiny finish on your car is the result of a "clear coat" over the manufacturer’s paint, and the heat generated during buffing causes that clear, protective shield to relax and smooth out, giving a beautiful shine.

4. This may sound like a no-brainer, but dark-colored cars require more frequent upkeep than light cars. Owners of dark cars should buff and wax at least 4 times a year to maintain the depth and shine in the paint’s finish, because the scratching and wear of daily driving and weekly washing will show up faster on a black or brown car. Lighter cars–tans, light blues, whites–require a twice-annual buff and wax for basic maintenance.

5. Does your Uncle Roy brag about putting 5 coats of wax on his car? Tell him he just wasted a lot of wax. When it comes to car wax, more isn’t better; it’s just more. Regardless of whether you wax your car in one pass or 5, daily wear will take that wax off uniformly, in one layer, leaving your car no more protected despite your multiple applications and elbow grease.

6. Caveat Emptor is the rule when shopping for a professional detailer, Hargrove says. Some of their impressive-sounding services are either unnecessary or can actually harm to your car.

For example, steam cleaning an engine–which involves spraying a degreaser on the engine and using a high-pressure water spray to remove it–can get water into electrical parts, or otherwise cause the car to run poorly, Hargrove says. And besides, it’s really not necessary that your car sparkle underneath the hood (though it can be a nice effect if you’re trying to sell the car).

Hargrove also pooh-poohs sealants, which some detailers claim will prolong the life of the paint’s finish. "In my opinion, it’s hype," Hargrove says. "A sealant will give you a shine, but it’s no better than wax. And it’s easy to apply, but you’re not looking for easy–you’re looking for a durable shine that’s going to last a while."

So what's the difference between AWD, 4WD and Full Time 4WD?

2008-01-21T14:02:00.000-08:00

> What is the difference between all wheel drive and
> four wheel drive, which one does the rav4 have, and
> what (mechanically) happens when you lock the
> center differential ?

Short, and not without bias:

4WD refers to part time systems, which run in 2WD on pavement, and on which you only engage the other axle (mostly front axle, but there are exceptions) when extra traction/stability is needed. Most (but not all) of these are heavy off-road vehicles with a split gear T-case (high/low range). Most (but not all) have a separate frame. Most (but not all) have solid axles.

Full Time 4WD [RAV4] are those systems which send torque to all wheels all the time, without user interference or axle-engaging automagic systems to achieve that. *Additional* user interference (center diff lock as the most common [RAV4 5sp manual]) and *additional* automagic systems (viscous LSD on center diff mostly [RAV4 auto]) can be present. No real distinction between road-going vehicles and heavy offroad vehicles; both often have full time 4wd (but again only the latter will have a split gear T-case).

AWD (All Wheel Drive) is the least defined category; often it includes the full time 4wd category, but I tend to define it more strictly as those vehicles that *only* send (a significant amount of) torque to the other axle (mostly rear axles, only a few front axles) *after* slip occurs. This behaviour is in contrast to full time, where all wheels get torque all the time, and at least with a fairly even balanced split (50/50% up to 33/66%, but much more bias than that makes it rather AWD than full-time.

A down side of some of the more agressive visco AWD systems is that they tend to bind in tight corners. VW Syncro's are known for this, yet even the Jeep Grand Cherokee Quadratrac (96+ system) is not free of this binding. Not good on ice. Other systems, like on some of the Ford Explorer models, only know two modes: locked or unlocked. Far from perfect as well.

There are only a few heavy offroad vehicles with this AWD, most are road going vehicles.

From a technical/driving point of view you would prefer full time 4wd, as this is the system that gives you the most predictable onroad handling, (corner) stability at high speeds, in cross winds and when towing a trailer. The shifting AWD systems only act after slip has occurred, and only act as long this slip occurs, and you
might be ages in the ditch already before that happens....8-))

Basic summary:

(part time) 4WD: passive, on demand

Full Time 4WD: active

AWD: reactive, automatic

Note that he term 4x4 has not been addressed; I just saw a recent hair split thread that 4WD is considered more work-horse than the 'fancy' 4x4. Does make some sense, as 4WD was put on the very first basic offroad vehicles, yet 4x4 was used to promote them in a more recreational way of use. Nice subjective hair split indeed....:-))

As to your question what locking the center diff on your RAV4 will do: note that this manual lock only comes on the 5sp manual; the auto version comes with an additional visco LSD instead.

Locking this center diff will mean that both front and rear drive shaft rotate at the same speed, regardless of traction on either axle.

This will prevent you getting stuck with one axle (or even one single wheel) spinning on ice, while the other wheels/axle still have sufficient grip (the wheel with the least traction determines your overall traction, and although all wheels get the same amount of torque, it might not be enough to move forward, either uphill or through mud/snow).

Sadly these terms are not subject to rationality/mechanics, but to market droids, many of whom have no idea what they are talking about (especially at dealer level, when pointing to their own, or worse, competitive brands (I still haven't heard the correct explanation about the Mercedes ML-series for example, and that was at two main dealerships....horrifying crap, even from good mechanics).

However, assuming the manufacturer uses the term, it comes down to 3/4
categories:

AWD:
*can* power all 4 wheels, but mostly only does so when, after, and as-long-as slip occurs. In my terminology these are called 'reactive systems', in contrast to 'active' fulltime. Refers mostly to lighter vehicles, without low range T-case. Hardly found on vehicles that are meant for bush work.

4WD:
mostly refering to parttime 4wd, as the 'old system', but IMNSHO it refers to both parttime and fulltime....pointing at more serious/heavy 4x4's, with mostly a low-range T-case (but, since both fulltime and parttime also comes on lighter cars without T-case (heck, even the WWII jeeps didn't have a low range, only a very low 1st gear), that's not a key element).

Parttime-4WD:
normally 2wd, can be manually shifted into 4wd.

Fulltime-4WD:
always 4wd, powering the wheels all the time (unlike most AWD)

As you can see, the market droids have messed up the technical classification, and there is nothing one can do about it.

How Much Should You Pay? Incentives and Rebates

2007-12-07T10:27:00.000-08:00

Car manufacturers use two kinds of incentive programs to spur car sales: factory-to-dealer incentives and customer rebates.

Factory-to-dealer incentives: These are essentially cash rebates from the manufacturer to the dealer, triggered by car sales. These programs are usually unadvertised to the public.

Dealers can pass the cash along to the customer if they choose, but don't hold your breath. So in negotiating with a dealer, you want to know whether the dealer has this ""secret"" cash available.

Customer rebates: Car makers sometimes offer rebates directly to the customer.
Ask the dealer to credit your rebate immediately to reduce the sales price of your car (and thus the amount of sales tax you'll pay), suggest the folks who publish CarDeals.

Links to current incentive program listings:

CarDeals is a biweekly newsletter that details auto rebate and incentive programs offered by the major auto manufacturers. The CarDeals newsletter offers one of the most comprehensive listings of these incentive programs.
Edmund's Consumer Information
-- click on ""Incentives and Rebates.""
Intellichoice, the largest publisher of consumer automobile reports in the United States, also publishes information about incentives.

Your Next Car: To Buy or Lease?

2007-12-07T09:30:00.000-08:00

The boom in auto leasing has been nothing less than astonishing. In 1990, just 10 percent of the people who shopped for new cars opted to lease instead of to buy. Last year, it was 32 percent. Leasing began as an option for businesses and buyers of luxury cars. Now it's common across the board -- partly because it can cost less per month to lease a car than to purchase one with an auto loan.

There's no slam-dunk answer to the question of whether to buy or lease. It depends on how you'll use the car and what the car means to you: Is it part of your personality or simply a motorized mule? Do you bond with your car or love the excitement of something new?

Consider Buying If...

You expect to drive the car for at least five years or more. Once you pay off your auto loan, you'll have transportation without writing regular monthly checks.

You think you might drive the car for more than 18,000 to 20,000 miles a year. High mileage can be expensive on a lease.

You want to save money in the long run, and you are looking only at your cash costs. In theory, you could lease your car and invest the difference between the low lease payments and the higher payments you'd owe on an auto loan. In that case, leasing would be cheaper. But if you don't invest the difference, then buying is cheaper.

You're in the market for a used car. Thanks to the popularity of leasing, dealers are flush with cream-puff cars that were driven for two years and then turned in. Look for one that's "manufacturer-certified" as being in top shape.

Consider Leasing If...

You want a more expensive car than you could otherwise afford. Monthly payments on leases are generally lower than on comparable auto loans. Also, leases don't require big down payments.

You want to drive a new car every two to three years and don't mind having permanent monthly payments.

Six Ways to Minimize Leasing Costs

When you take a lease, your monthly payment is based primarily on the difference between the car's initial cost and its expected value when the lease is up. For example, if you lease a car with a sticker price of $20,000 that's expected to be worth $12,000 when you turn it in, you'll consume $8,000 in value over the life of the lease. To hold your lease costs down:

1. Don't start by discussing how much the lease will cost per month. First bargain down the price of the car, then use that price for figuring monthly costs. For example, you might negotiate that $20,000 car down to $18,000. You'd then be consuming only $6,000 in value over the life of the lease. That would reduce your monthly cost.

2. Look at several different leasing packages from one or two dealers. Some lessors charge lower fees than others.

3. Estimate how many miles you're likely to drive. The lease will typically cover the first 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. You'll pay an extra 10 to 25 cents for every additional mile driven, when the lease is up. If you know you'll drive more than the basic amount, it's cheaper to pay for the excess miles in advance.

4. Check your credit union. Many offer cheap leases to members.

5. Keep the car for the full term of the lease. You'll pay a significant price for returning the car ahead of time. The disclosure statement you get from the dealer will tell you how the cost of breaking the lease is figured.

6. Drive carefully. There's a charge at the end of the lease for unusual wear and tear on the car.

Lease and Buy

When your lease is up, you can turn in the keys and lease another car. Or you might decide to buy the car you've been driving, usually at a price that was set in advance in your leasing contract.

Do some research before you buy: Used-car prices are weak today. The contract might call for a higher price than the car is worth. You can find used-car prices in the Kelley Blue Book ($9.95, available in bookstores or by calling 800-258-3266; prices can also be found at www.kbb.com and www.edmunds.com).

If the car's market price does indeed turn out to be lower than the price in your leasing contract, you can often bargain the dealer down.

Finding the Cheapest Lease

Given two leases for the same car -- with identical down payments, mileage allowances, and other terms -- here's how to tell which one is best, according to Randall McCathren of Bank Lease Consultants in Nashville:

If you intend to keep the lease for the full term and then turn the car in, the best deal is the one with the lowest monthly payments.

If you intend to buy the car at the end of the lease, add up all the monthly payments plus the end-of-lease purchase price. The best deal is the car with the lowest total cost.

Auto Insurance Made Easy: the Basics

2007-12-07T08:07:00.000-08:00

You have shopped, bargained and groveled to find a good car at a good price. But before you can zoom off the lot in your new wheels, there's one more tiny detail: insurance. Comprehensive or collision? Low or high deductible? And where can you find the best deals? It is enough to take the shine off your brand wheels, but don't let it. Buying car insurance just means mastering a few basics.

Every car insurance policy has a deductible, which is the amount you must pay toward any damage to your car before your insurance company will begin picking up the tab. Policies also have a limit, which is
the maximum amount your insurance company will pay in the event of an accident.

Insurance policies are classified according to how much your insurance company will pay per person and per accident. So if your policy has a $100,000/$300,000 limit, your insurance company will pay up to $100,000 to each person involved in the accident, with a $300,000 maximum for the entire accident. You can lower the cost of your policy by choosing a high deductible -- but then you'll have to pay more if you do have an accident.

The trick, then, is getting the lowest deductible and the highest coverage limits you can afford.

Most states require property damage liability, bodily injury liability and medical payment insurance. If an accident is your fault, property damage insurance covers damage to another car, and bodily injury liability covers injuries to passengers in your car and other cars involved.

Medical payment insurance covers you and your passengers, regardless of whether the accident was your fault. If your state requires it, find the highest coverage limits you can afford. If your state doesn't require it, don't just brush it off. Remember that if an accident is your fault and you're not fully insured, you may be stuck with a whopping bill.

Whoever financed your car loan will probably require you to get comprehensive and collision insurance; comprehensive covers you when your car is broken into or vandalized, and collision covers you -- really the car itself -- when you are in an accident.

Because insurance rates vary from company to company, it is worth shopping around before you buy. Keep these tips in mind:

You can lower the cost of a policy if you insure more than one car, or if you have a renter's or homeowner's policy with the same company.
Consider adding coverage to your policy to protect you if you're in an accident with an uninsured motorist.
Reduce your rates by parking your car in a locked lot, or buying a car with such safety features as air bags and antilock brakes.
Drive carefully; drivers with clean records can get lower rates.
If you drive a limited number of miles, ask your company to lower your rates.

Shop the Web

For a list of sites through which you can easily access online auto insurance, click here. Then check out ultimate Car Buying Guide.

Understand Car Loans and Leases

2007-12-07T07:44:00.000-08:00

"Bait and switch", "adjusted capitalized costs", "residual values", "money factors": in the car financing arena you'll face confusing jargon and the potential for misunderstanding. Knowledge is your best defense.

Financing versus Leasing: The Basics

When you finance the purchase of a car, you typically make a down payment and borrow the rest. As long as you make your payments, you are the rightful owner of the car. With a lease, you don't pay for 100 percent of the car; you only pay for what you use, as measured by depreciation. So you never actually own the car.

For example, if a $10,000 car will be valued at $6,000 at the end of four years (residual value = $6,000), the $4,000 difference represents the depreciation cost. In this example, $4,000 of value will be "used up" over four years. With a lease, you pay for the depreciation, certain fees, plus interest on the full value of the car. You never own the vehicle, the leasing company does, but you have the right to use the vehicle during the lease term. So at the end of the lease, if you'd like to own the vehicle, you'll need to pay off the residual value.

Whether leasing or taking out a car loan, you are creating a new financial obligation in your life. So if you are overburdened with other debts, consider driving a used vehicle rather than a new one. It's usually a much less expensive alternative.

Financing the right way:
Always try to prearrange financing through a bank or credit union before you visit a dealer to negotiate price. Arrange for financing based on the MSRP (full retail "sticker" price) of the car or type of car (midsize or subcompact, for example) you'd like. Should you ultimately buy the car for less, your car payments will drop accordingly.

These online sites offer car loans and loan info:

CarFinance.com, brought to you by E-Loan; or call 1 800-598-3272

PeopleFirst.com offers good deals for people with excellent credit.

Microsoft Carpoint brings you advice on shopping for a loan.

If you insist on financing the car through the dealer, or can't qualify elsewhere for a bank loan, do NOT share this personal information with the dealer until after you have established the purchase price. Should the dealer learn that you are desperate for a lease or a loan, your bargaining power will be severely damaged and you will overpay for the car.

Another dealer ploy: should you fail to first negotiate a set price, the dealer will sell you "affordable" monthly payments that will continue far longer than they should. And don't let the salesperson know your financing limit. According to Grady Cash, author of Conquer the 7 Deadly Money Mistakes, the salesperson will then try to price the car so as to hit that limit. If they ask about your financing limit, indicate that financing isn't a problem. Say, "Let's get back to discussing the purchase price."

If you have already secured a good financing deal from your bank or credit union, there's no harm in asking the dealer to try and beat the terms with a better offer. Be sure to get everything in writing, cautions Anderson and Palmer of Edmunds.com. Then either analyze the terms yourself or have an independent expert go over the terms, such as Fighting Chance's James Bragg.

Tips for Negotiating a Car's Price

2007-12-06T13:42:00.000-08:00

Do you dread negotiating? Relax. You don't have to haggle if you don't want to. The idea is to find an approach you are comfortable with -- it may well be the no-haggle, take-it-or-leave-it approach that many buyers successfully employ.

But no matter how you decide to negotiate, never feel you must commit to a deal if you're uncomfortable. Walk away and give yourself time to think, free of any pressure. In fact, walking away from a deal can be a powerful way to get better terms.
Job number one is to establish a fair purchase price. Don't discuss financing at all, either via fax, over the phone or in person. Make it clear that you won't talk about payments or financing until after you settle on a fair price. Should the dealer learn that you are desperate for a lease or a loan, your bargaining power will be severely damaged, and you will overpay for the car. Should you fail to first negotiate a set price, the dealer will sell you "affordable" monthly payments that will continue far longer than they should.

In addition, don't let the salesperson know your financing limit. According to car-buying expert Grady Cash, author of Conquer the 7 Deadly Money Mistakes, the salesperson will try to price the car so as to hit that limit. If they ask about your financing limit, indicate that financing isn't a problem. Say, "Let's get back to discussing the purchase price."

In person:

Visit a dealer but don't make an offer, counsels Cash. Ask for the dealer's "out-the-door" price -- this is the price that includes sales tax plus all fees and charges. Compare it with other quotes you may have received, and the target price you've calculated. If necessary, continue the negotiation in person or, better yet, by fax or phone.

By phone

Negotiating by phone is "much easier than sitting through an hour of sales hype," according to Cash. Find area dealers in the phone book. Ask for the sales manager.

Cash recommends you say something like, I'm willing to pay $15,000 for that car and not a nickel more. If that's okay, I can be there in a half-hour with a certified check. "They'll either say yes, no or make a counteroffer," Cash says. "No matter what, you're in control." Another approach he suggests: Ask the dealer to beat the "no-haggle" (Web-based) price quote by $500, otherwise you'll buy from the "no-haggle" dealer.

By fax

Car-buying service Fighting Chance strongly recommends what they call the fax attack, in which you use the fax machine to pit numerous dealers against one another in a bidding contest for your business. Call area dealerships and ask each for the fax number and name of their sales manager. Fax the sales managers a description of the car model you want, and ask that they respond with their best price quote. Then fax the dealers again to see who will beat the lowest quote from round one. This can be an especially effective approach if you hate face-to-face negotiations or otherwise worry that you won't get the best available price.

No-haggle

Web-based dealer referral services and true no-haggle dealerships such as Saturn and Daewoo eliminate the anxiety associated with dithering over price, but in exchange for a "stress-free" buying experience, you will pay more than you need to for a car -- full sticker price for a Saturn, for example.

Most of the car-buying Websites bill themselves as "no-haggle" sites, and simply arrange for an affiliated dealer in your area to contact you with a "no haggle" price quote -- convenient, yes, but not necessarily the best possible price. (Truth is, you can often negotiate with those dealers!)

Another approach if you really hate haggling or don't care to take on the dealers yourself: consider one of the consumer-friendly car buying services.

TIP: YOUR TIME IS MONEY, so figure it in: if you're worth $20 an hour after taxes, and it'll take 15 hours of extra pricing research, dealer visits and negotiations, a no-haggle approach could be worth $300 to you.

How Much Should You Pay? Options

2007-12-06T13:15:00.000-08:00

Optional equipment is either factory installed, or installed at the dealership by the service department. Mark Eskeldson, author of What Car Dealers Don't Want You to Know, founder of the consumer-friendly Website CarInfo.com, and a former dealership auto mechanic, says many people are paying as much as $3,000 more than necessary for a new car, thanks in large part to overpriced, sometimes unnecessary options.

Retail markups on dealer installed optional equipment tend to be large -- as much as 25 to 65 percent (compared with 12 to 15 percent on factory installed options). Though less convenient, for certain features like car stereos and security systems, you may be able to do better by having an independent ""after-market"" installer do the job, rather than the dealer.

Fortunately, you don't have to accept dealer-installed options that you don't want. On the other hand, to get the factory-installed options you do want, you may be forced to buy others, since factory options are often grouped together into different ""trim"" packages.

These trim pachages help limit the number of available options (less complexity reduces manufacturing costs), so you probably ""won't be able to go through a long list of features and cherry-pick the ones you want,"" says Rick Popely on Cars.com. So carefully weigh features you want against what you really need; don't spend $3,000 for a bunch of factory-installed features when you only want the anti-lock brakes. You may even need to consider a different model to get what you want without paying for things you don't want.

Dealer-installed options can be difficult to price, even when you know the dealer invoice prices, largely because labor charges vary widely, depending upon where you live. Honda, for example, doesn't even divulge invoice prices of dealer-installed options.

So how do you know whether you are getting a square deal on dealer-installed options?
If an option is available from an independent after-market installer, call for a price quote (look in the Yellow Pages). Otherwise, get ready to play detective. Try calling the parts and repair department of another dealer that sells the model you want. Ask how much they would charge to install that particular option, with a breakdown between the parts and labor. You might also check out the price for the same option on a competitive car model. For example, price Toyota Corolla options to get a better idea about corresponding options for a Honda Civic.

More on options at Cars.com.

How Much Should You Pay? Costs You Can Avoid

2007-12-06T12:57:00.000-08:00

When buying a car there are always those extra charges that jack up the cost of your new wheels. The good news is that some of these costs are avoidable. The not so good news is that you can't avoid 'em all.

You probably can't avoid the following costs, but you can make sure they're reasonable.

Sales tax (varies by state)
Licensing & registration fees (call your state's department of motor vehicles for the right dollar amount)
Destination charge (usually $400 to $450)
Documentation fee: reasonable amount is $50. $250 is not, according to experts Greg Anderson and Ingrid Loeffler Palmer at Edmunds.com.
Advertising fee: This is a legitimate fee, according to Fighting Chance founder James Bragg.
Dealers must chip in to pay for regional television ads, so they pass the cost on to the buyer. However, the experts at Edmunds suggest you not pay more than one percent of MSRP, or $200, whichever is less. Certainly don't pay more than two percent.
Emission fees (About $100 retail)

Try to avoid the following costs. You shouldn't pay for:

Extended warranties: Buy a car with a good service history. In many cases, filing a claim and receiving reimbursement or payment is just too much of a hassle. See the FTC article on extended warranties.
Dealer prep: The car dealer is already getting paid a fixed amount by the factory to prepare the vehicle for sale, according to Mark Eskeldson, author of What Car Dealers Don't Want You to Know.
Credit insurance (to pay off your car loan should you die.) ""You don't need it if you have life insurance,"" says Jean Ann Fox, director of consumer protection at the Consumer Federation of America.

Moreover, Edmunds experts Greg Anderson and Ingrid Loeffler Palmer strongly suggest you also avoid:

Delivery and handling charges (D&H) -- "nothing more than added dealer profit"

Fabric coating -- "Do your own with a $5 bottle of Scotchgard"

Teflon coating -- "No longer needed because of clearcoat paint used on cars today"

Rustproofing -- "It is unnecessary and can harm your car. You're adding weight, which increases gas mileage, and it can void your warranty in some cases."

How Much Should You Pay? Five Steps to a Fair Price

2007-12-06T12:46:00.000-08:00

To get a fair deal, you need to first figure out how much the car you want should cost -- establish this price before mentioning a trade-in or financing to the dealer. (Should you fail to first negotiate a set price, the dealer will sell you "affordable" monthly payments that will continue longer than they should.)

So how do you figure out a fair price?
Try this five-step approach:

1. Start with the dealer base invoice price for the model you want.

2. Subtract any dealer incentive.

3. Add 4 or 5 percent back so the dealer can make a living (This "markup" represents dealer profit. Edmund's suggests adding back just 3 percent; Kiplinger's recommends 4.5 percent). The average dealer markup on autos actually sold is around 7 percent.

What kind of markup exists on the no-hassle, no-haggle cars?
(Many auto Websites offer referrals to ""no-haggle"" dealers, but they really aren't.) Saturn's non-negotiable markup is about 11 percent; Daewoo, the other true no-haggle dealer, marks their Lanos model up around 17 percent.

4. Try not to pay full retail price for options.

Add in the dealer invoice cost of factory-installed options, plus a reasonable markup -- not more than 5 percent or so. (If you only have access to the retail price for an option, add in 90 to 95 percent of retail.) dealer-installed options are another story.

5. Add in other unavoidable costs, such as destination charges, licensing and registration, sales tax, etc., to get a final "out the dealer's door" price (the price you pay to drive the car off the lot). Make sure you don't pay for avoidable charges.

Note that this price is before any trade-in allowance and before any customer rebate. Again, you don't even want to mention a trade-in or financing until after you reach an agreement on the purchase price.

Helpful Car Pricing Links

Here are some of the best online resources to further help you determine a fair price.

Fighting Chance car-buying service.

Edmunds pricing information (click on make and model in New Car Prices)

Kiplinger Car Finder: If you know you won't be making the calculations yourself, this tool automatically calculates a suggested maximum target price (excluding optional equipment). Unfortunately, pricing is not available for all car models.

Choosing a Used Car: Reviews and Reliability Ratings

2007-12-06T12:36:00.000-08:00

Here are some sites that can help you narrow down your choices, save money and find a reliable used car.

Best overall value winners (search by model year and vehicle class) from Intellichoice.
Most dependable used cars: Click on "long-term dependability" at Cars.com.
Consumer Reports good bets and models to avoid. ($2.95 a month to subscribe)

Used-Car Reviews and Reliability Ratings

Use some caution regarding used car reviews: for older models, many online sites only have the original new car reviews in their archives, rather than up-to-date used car information.

For genuine used car reviews and unbiased reliability ratings, check out these Websites:

Consumer Reports online discusses reliable used cars within various price ranges -- or, you can search by model (members only, $2.95 a month).

At Edmunds online you pick a manufacturer, then a model and year, and get scores (0 to 10) for safety, reliability, performance, comfort and value.

Choosing a Used Car: How to Avoid a Lemon

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When shopping for a new car, if you stick with the top makers, there is little chance you will wind up with a lemon. The tougher task is to get a fair price. With used cars, you still want a fair price, but your risk of overpaying is probably lower than with a new car. Top priority is to avoid a lemon. We'll show you some ways to improve your odds.

This year, for each new car or truck that gets sold, about three used vehicles will be resold -- all told, about 45 million used cars and trucks
will be sold in 1999, according to industry experts.
Used-vehicle sales will be about equally split among new-car dealers, independent used-car lots and private transactions (classified ads).

According to Oregon-based CNW Marketing/Research, the average private car will be sold for $4,300; the average sale on an independent used-car lot will be for $7,300; and the average used car at a new-car dealer will go for $12,200. These prices reflect the average age of the vehicles being sold, with many of the used cars sold by new-car dealers having just come off lease.

When considering a used car, choose models with good service histories: check independent used car reliability ratings.
Find yourself a good mechanic (ask car-savvy friends or acquaintances for referrals) and ask him to check out your prospective purchase. Have him check for the specific problems most cited for that particular model in the reviews. Also have the emissions tested before you buy.
Buy a car that still has warranty protection, such as fleet cars, demos, executive trade-ins and off-lease vehicles.
When you buy a "factory-certified" used car, you can expect to get extra warranty protection. Factory-certified cars are generally high-end models coming off lease. They typically come with a one-year factory warranty.
Check your local classified listings; the used car market is so local, Kelley Blue Book values are not always fully reflective of local differences, says Fighting Chance's James Bragg.
Avoid used cars coming from rental agencies; they've had countless drivers, and you can bet some of them drove the car pretty hard.

Choosing a New Car

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In your search for a new car, this Buyer's Guide is your homebase. So bookmark the page, and keep coming back whenever you are ready to take the next step in the car buying process. We're with you every step of the way.

As you move from site to site, following our links to independent online reviews, have a ballpark idea of what you are looking to spend ($20,000 to $25,000, for example), and identify two or three different models that you think you'd be happy with. But don't just go by what you read, test-drive prospective models before you buy; you can make an appointment for a test drive over the phone.

If you can't seem to get a good deal on your first choice, move on to your next. But if you have your heart set on one particular car model, that's okay too.

TIP: Don't forget to consider insurance costs when choosing among models. Call your insurance agent for rates or check out these online auto insurance resources.

The following links and tools can help you narrow down your search:

1. Browsing for a Model

Just enter your criteria, and Kiplinger's Car Finder spits out suggested models.

Browse cars by category in Microsoft's Carpoint.

Find unique rankings, including most fuel-efficient cars, most likely to be stolen models, even best-selling colors, at Cars.com.

2. Best and Worst Lists

J.D. Power and Associates best initial quality listings

Consumer Reports online($2.95 a month to subscribe -- and worth it) talks up ""good bets"" as well as lemons.

Intellichoice best overall value winners. (you can select model year and vehicle class; also best cars over and under $20,000 and best truck over and under $18,000)

3. New-Car Reviews and Road-Test Reports

Kelley Blue Book also has highly respected, independent reviews.

Consumer Reports' graphical comparisons show you at a glance how car models stack up against their competitors, plus new car reviews and new car reliability forecasts ($3.95 a month)

Buy it New! How Much Can You Afford?

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For most families, only housing costs exceed transportation costs. Unlike most homes, however, brand new automobiles don't appreciate, they depreciate -- as you use 'em up, their value drops. Expect it to cost at least $6,000 per year to drive a new car, according to Wisconsin-based consulting firm Runzheimer International (this figure includes insurance, depreciation expense, maintenance and other typical costs over the first four years or 60,000 miles).

If you are well on your way to a secure financial future, go ahead and splurge on a new car. But if you would use a credit card to make the down payment, as would nearly half of those polled recently by Autoweb.com, you may want to click here to find out about a tried-and-true way to save $2,000 per year on car costs.

Lenders like to see no more than 28 percent of your gross income go toward housing. And they want you to limit total debt payments (credit cards, mortgage, student loans, car payments, etc.) to around 36 percent of gross income. Keep in mind that mortgage interest is tax-deductible, which effectively lowers your housing costs. So if you earn $50,000 and you're paying $1,000 per month on a mortgage, that leaves about $500 per month for all other debts -- including car payments.

Remember that even if lenders think you can afford a new car, that doesn't mean you can buy that new car and put money away to secure your future. Lenders look to get paid back -- they don't particularly care whether you are saving for retirement.